1994 Smith Woodhouse Colheita Port

[Glenn E.]

I had this last night as my wife and I celebrated our 21st anniversary. It was the only Port on the wine list that looked interesting to me, though they did have all of the "old standbys" like the Otima 10-yr old and Sandeman 20-yr old. I didn't have a way to take notes, so this is from memory.

The color was beautiful at our table, which was outdoors on a clear and sunny evening. A rust-ish dunn color when held down near the table, but a brilliant red when held up so look through it at the sky.

The nose had a very faint hint of alcohol and something stronger which I can only describe as "green". Sort of a nondescript non-perfumed crushed green leaf/grass smell. It wasn't unpleasant, but it was different. Along with the typical apricot/dried prune there was a hint of almond.

I don't recall anything special in the flavor, other than it had a pretty strong bite and was most definitely hot.

What I noticed most was the finish, which was fairly normal until it abruptly switched over to cognac after about 10 seconds. Right down to the oily feel and thin 3-in-1 oil aroma on the back of the palate. It surprised me so much the first time that I sat the glass down and cleared my palate with some water and chocolate (yeah, I know, not the best way to clear your palate) in order to try it again. Same result, so it was definitely an attribute of the Port.

Despite being 14 years old, this gave me the impression of a young-ish 10-yr old. I suppose this might be a side effect of the year, in which case the 1994 Colheitas that are given 20-40 years to mature are going to be spectacular.

[Roy Hersh]

Glenn,

Although I'm on my 2nd marriage, the first one took place the same year as yours. Happy Anniversary and glad you two celebrated with a Port at the end of your evening.

May I ask what restaurant?

You should invest in some 1987 Vintage Ports, of which there are some beauties, to you can celebrate future Anniversaries in style. My suggestion ix the Quinta de Vargellas, my favorite 1987 VP.

[Glenn E.]

We ate at the Purple Cafe in Kirkland, which has a rather nondescript name compared to what it really is. For those unfamiliar with it, it is most definitely a restaurant and not a cafe, and it draws its name from the fact that it is also a pretty well stocked wine bar. They don't carry a ton of really old or really rare wines, but they do have a very nice variety from around the world.

Sadly, their Port offerings have always been meager. But at least the wine selection keeps my wife happy!

Thanks for the suggestion Roy - I've never been terribly impressed by the 1987 Kopke Colheita, which is the only Port I have had from 1987, so I don't have much in my cellar for celebrating anniversaries. I'll keep any eye out for the Vargellas!