"Vintage Character" Port

[Van W]

I have a style question here. Ports that were formerly labeled as "Vintage Character" (now called "Reserve" or some-such) are my go-to, affordable, every-day type of port (e.g., Graham's "Six Grapes" and Fonseca's "Bin 27). They are reasonably priced and of good quality and are pretty widely available. And, if I recall, this is the style that originally introduced me to (and got me hooked on) Port.

So here's my question: What, exactly is the "goal" or "target" which the producers of these ports are trying to reach? Obviously, there's a world of difference between a VP and one of these wines. Does this question make sense?

Thanks!
Van

[Michael Hann]

In port wine, as in many products, there are a variety of products aimed at a variety of price points to appeal to a variety of consumer budgets. At a course level of granularity, these product classes -- excluding tawny ports -- are ruby port, special reserve ruby port, late bottled vintage port, and vintage port. There is another category -- crusted port -- that I don't see often myself, but maybe others do. My guess would be crusted port is or is supposed to fit a niche between late bottle vintage port and vintage port in the price point hierarchy. It would be generally acknowledged that a well cellared, fully mature vintage port from an excellent vintage would be at the top of the quality pyramid of this kind of port -- it would also be at the top of the price point hierarchy. If you want to think of it in this way -- which is really a bit sideways of the reality -- all these other types of ports "want to be" this peaking vintage port from an excellent vintage. By characterizing itself as "vintage character," these lesser ports are trying to say they are "like" these peaking vintage ports. This designation is no longer legally allowed, presumably because not only is it a distortion to say they are "like" vintage ports, it is not very smart when you want to maintain the perceived value of the peaking vintage port to say these much lesser ports provide you the same experience (doesn't "vintage character" imply the experience is essentially the same or essentially similar?). I hope this provides you with the understanding of this topic you were looking for. Others who know more about these things will correct, I hope, any errors I may have made.

[Eric Menchen]

I think the goal is to produce a consistently good product that fits in the price-point space Michael mentioned. From the producer standpoint, a nice thing about reserve and "Vintage Character" or "Crusted" Port is that they can blend from different vintages to get a good product.

Somewhere in Michael's scale we could insert SQVPs and declared second name brands, e.g. Fonseca Guimaraens and Sandeman Vau.

[Derek T.]

I think the general objective of Vintage Character ports was to provide an "aged" ruby port at a reasonable price. Many LBV ports (most of which are bottled after 4 years) can be "too young" in their flavour profile for those who prefer Vintage Port, while Tawny or Colheita ports might be too oxidised for that same audience. VC (now Reserve) provides a balance between the two extremes.

I don't know what the background to the change in the rules was but, for me, Vintage Character captures the essence of the product better than Reserve does. But I'm just an old-fashoined Brit so what do I know

[Moses Botbol]

There is another category -- crusted port -- that I don't see often myself, but maybe others do. My guess would be crusted port is or is supposed to fit a niche between late bottle vintage port and vintage port in the price point hierarchy.

I'd like to see more done with Crusted Ports. Being able to blend different vintages into one bottle that can age has many advantages. The port maker can balance or design the port more than just waiting to see how one vintage will turn out. I've found crusted to be a great value and very close to vintage port in style; more than most LBV's.

How cool would a "decade port" be? Taking 3-4 different special vintages of a decade and bottling it as a crusted port. I'll take a case!

[Van W]

Thanks all. You see what I'm getting at.

I haven't particularly noticed that a Reserve port seems "more aged" than a LBV, but I guess I haven't really been thinking about it and have never tasted them side-by-side. Now that you mention it, I wonder if that question could form the basis of a blind port tasting??

I know LBV's have the potential to age somewhat in the bottle, whereas the Reserve's do not. I wonder, then, roughly "what age" of a VP are the Reserve ports trying to approximate?

[Lamont Huxley]

Thanks all. You see what I'm getting at.

I haven't particularly noticed that a Reserve port seems "more aged" than a LBV, but I guess I haven't really been thinking about it and have never tasted them side-by-side. Now that you mention it, I wonder if that question could form the basis of a blind port tasting??

I know LBV's have the potential to age somewhat in the bottle, whereas the Reserve's do not. I wonder, then, roughly "what age" of a VP are the Reserve ports trying to approximate?

LBVs vs. Reserve Rubies sounds like a very cool idea for a blind tasting (especially for a guy like myself with a limited budget). I might have to give that a try!

I'm sure there are folks here who could give you a more educated answer to your question, but from my own experience of drinking Reserve Rubies, I'd say that if you were to compare them to Vintage Port they would most closely resemble a very young one - dark, fruity and primary. Of course they generally don't have the complexity or structure of a true Vintage Port, but that's to be expected given the much lower price point.

[Roy Hersh]

For the most part, I find that the quality of Reserve Rubies is quite solid, especially from the known entities. I like Graham's Six Grapes, Noval Black, Sandeman Founders Reserve and Bin 27, but there are others I try from time to time too. 20 years ago, I drank more of them then I do now because I don't buy them anymore but only taste them for tasting note data points.

That said, I find that Unfiltered LBV's are closer in style to Vintage Ports in terms of flavor profile, tannins, ageworthiness and body weight. YMMV.

[Andy Velebil]

So here's my question: What, exactly is the "goal" or "target" which the producers of these ports are trying to reach? Obviously, there's a world of difference between a VP and one of these wines. Does this question make sense?

Thanks!
Van

Simply to provide a solid every day Port at a reasonable price.

I drink my fair share of these for exactly the reason I stated. With my often changing and hectic work schedule I don't always have time to decant an older VP properly, have time to consume a full bottle in a day or two*, and sometimes I just want one glass of what I call my "non-thinking" Ports. That is I can sit back and enjoy a glass before bed without having to ponder the intricacies I would have to with an older bottle. Some of these Reserve Rubies offer the same or even better quality than some LBV's to boot, and can often be found at cheaper prices. So in my opinion it's a win-win for everyone.

*Hearsay I know, so don't tell anyone I said that.

[Roy Hersh]

I wish on occasion I could find LBV's for less money than the Ruby Reserves. That would be quite the coup.