1999 Smith Woodhouse LBV Port

[Ray Barnes]

I found it a delicious coincidence that our friend Lamont started a new thread on the evening of March 15, 2011 with his very written comments and observations, as I was sampling this wine at the same time, and again two nights later.

In reading his post, compared with my own experience, I think a prospective buyer may have to prepare for some bottle variation. The first thing I noticed two nights ago was that the bouquet was open and generous - you can surmise a blend of chocolate and dark fruit - and two days later, it was still holding its own very well. What I found initially dissapointing on the first tasting was what I felt was a lack of integration between the fruit and alcohol, that the wine was full bodied but "a bit rough around the edges". This was tasted alongside the last third or so of the 2004 Taylor Fladgate LBV, which 3 days after unstoppering was still showing nice balance of flavour and heat, but its bouquet, so initally attractive, had become very subdued. This wine was starting to run out of steam, quite unlike the 2005 Cockburns which was becoming quite good after 3 days. Perhaps as a result of drinking instead of spitting out, two nights ago I made a 50/50 (roughly) blend of the somewhat unfresh Taylor with the fresh Smith Woodhouse, and this turned out to be the most enjoyable. Perhaps this is sacrilegious, but we were having a good time. It went well too with the double brie cheese and the Nestle dark chocolate filled truffles.

Earlier tonight the Smith Woodhouse in my view was showing better than its debut, with the bouquet holding and the flavour coming around very well, now smoother, richer and better integrated. The bottom third of the bottle produced some sediment in the glass, so decanting really is recommended. I have to admit, overall I found this a better wine, over a series of tastings, than either the Taylor or the Cockburn, and tend to concur with Lamont's overall assessment. Unlike the other wines, this one has a cork instead of a stopper. It seems to me this wine is being held out as a "baby vintage port", and meant to be taken more seriously than a typical LBV. Considering it sells for $37 a bottle here, almost half again as much as the other two, it had better deliver. My guess is, this wine has another 5 years. If it were priced at $30 or less, I would feel inclined to buy much more of it.

Quality: A
Value: B