TN: Barbeito Single Harvest Colheita Meio Seco 1997

[Andy Dremeaux]

Bottled in February 2007, 100% Tinta Negra Mole. RWC is selling a whole line of these single harvest and/or single cask Barbeito madeiras at the moment, $35 each/500ml. This bottle has been open and consumed slowly for the past couple months.

Pours a slightly musty, slightly cloudy deep golden brown. A lot of spirit in the nose at first pour. As that washes off, I get orange marmalade, fertilizer, and a nice nuttiness—almond and walnut. Swirling brings out so much spirit that it is hard to get a good read, but there is a burst of anise that comes through. Good body but not much intensity of flavor; the acid profile is light but feels very citric; lemon, mainly. Mild sweetness with notes of crisp apple cider and a spat of oak. I get the slightest bit of umami character in the midbody. Long finish of lemon meringue pie. A solid but not particularly exciting madeira for the price. I probably won't be buying this bottle again, but it has piqued my interest enough that I'll almost certainly explore more in the series. 86 points.

[Eric Ifune]

Fertilizer? In a nasty fecal, chemical way; or a nice earthy, forest floor way?

[Andy Dremeaux]

Fertilizer? In a nasty fecal, chemical way; or a nice earthy, forest floor way?

Well, I didn't want to say "poop," but there was definitely a note of that in there. But no, not in a particularly bad way; I guess you could say "forest floor" if you wanted to put a glossy sheen on it ( ), but I don't think in small, natural quantities it is a flaw. Hell, many high end cheeses reek of it. It's just difficult to word it in such a way that people won't read it as a flaw.

[Eric Ifune]

I get it.
It was Anthony Hanson who famously said great Burgundy smells of sh*t.

[Roy Hersh]

Hi Andy,

I am positive we had the same wine. Neither of us is apparently a fan and I think that my TN on this was looked at in a negative light by certain individuals in the Madeira world.

Here was my note upon first tasting this wine:

1997 Barbeito Tinta Negra Mole Colheita Madeira
Finally to the point where the Madeira is drinkable (the earlier aka as younger Madeira wines served, were not). Medium-dry and from a single harvest and this was aged in Canteiro. Single vineyard source of grapes. A medium-bodied and somewhat enjoyable off-dry style. The components are all in place with fine acidity and a solid finish. Give it five more years before opening one.
83 Points (2007-05-18)

[Niklas J]

Since I bought a case of this one (12 x 50 cl) I have been following it for a while. Had it again yesterday, to pair with a creamy mushroom soup and it was an excellent combination. It seems I like this wine a bit more than the rest commenting. I should mention though, that the 2000 Single Harvest (3,061 bottles made) tasted at Barbeito recently, is a far superior glass than the 1997. So try that one as well, in order to give Tinta Negra one more chance

[Roy Hersh]

I've had several samples and bottlings of 100% TNM Madeira. I have NOTHING against the grape. I've also had the Barbeito 2000 before as well. We do not all have to agree on the greatness or even goodness of a single bottling. If we always saw wines alike, this place would be pretty boring.

[Niklas J]

Well, that was pretty much what my comment was all about; concluding we have different preferences and opinions. No attack on anyone's view, just a hope that Andy, who started the thread wouldn't feel this was a typical Tinta Negra - and hence a bit skeptical to future buys....

[Roy Hersh]

Niklas,

There are certainly LOTS of examples of very fine Tinta Negra bottlings and even ones where the majority of what is in the bottle is Tinta Negra, that have been very successful.

[Niklas J]

There sure are Roy! And speaking of those; have you tasted the new Colheita from Justino's? The 1999?