Of Interest: A Great Amontillado Sherry: Domecq 51 1a Solera NV

[John Trombley]

Amontillado Domecq 30 year dated Sherry V O R S (Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum) 51-1a, Nonvintage, 19 percent alcohol BV, 750 ml, $75.00, Allied Domecq Wines, Healdsburg, CA.

The previous bottling I found of this was of a superb 'Very Rare' 51 1a about 2004 that had been in the commercial system for perhaps 15-20 years by appearance. The VORS label, supposedly more accurate as to age, I hoped indicated a sherry quite similar in style to the older stuff.

O> Deep tea color with a touch of unfiltered? bittiness. Glass-coating sheeting texture.

N> Considerable 'sweet' caramel and a brothy complexity, underlined with a rich and vivid maltiness, still quite angular and with a noticeable awkwardness.

T> Considerable crisp acidity with a decided white-wine-tannin midpalate and finish. Medium to long, smoky, stony, mineralic, salivary-gland-striking palate.

This wine seems very similar in materials to the previous 'very rare' sherry, but I'd say the older one had a great deal of bottle age, all to its benefit, and which was beautifully drinkable but even then with a little upside, and no fear of collapse at all. As the current bottling was aired and swirled, it became remarkably like the older one, in terms of depth, complexity, richness, vividness, and salty/malty/consommé-like appetizing notes.

Serve with soups, stews, or as a show-opening aperitif for the more adventure-loving crowd. If this were a white Burgundy at this quality level, it'd go for hundreds of dollars or more. Even as a Sercial Madiera in the same age range, it'd be worth way more.

I'd advise a good 13-17 years on recent releases, and keeping track of cellar time. 94/100; drink from 2025--2030.

[Eric Ifune]

Hi John,
You said "sweet" caramel on the nose. How sweet was it on the palate?
I'd thought a good Amontillado wouldn't be all that sweet.

[John Trombley]

Not at all, Colonel. It's 100 percent palomino and crisp and dry as you could like.

Best, John