1992 Graham Porto Vintage Malvedos (Portugal, Douro, Porto), 20 pabv, $34.95/750 ml, Cost Plus Eastern Market Wine Warehouse, Detroit, MI, Imported by Premium Port Wines, Sausalito, CA.
Cork removed intact, showing a full crumbled-crust sediment. Light in color for port, fading halfway to the edge, and fairly bitty when examined with a Riedel Zin glass. Initial note:
Sourish cherry and vanilla, with a smoky resinous and earthy-liquorice note. Perhaps a little volatile-nail polish note to start. Rich and sweet, juicy, energetic, and slightly sour-bitter, with a medium finish, built on very fine and light tannins.
An hour later, the wine becomes more integrated, less jagged in the nose, having a nice lift and caresssing texture on the palate, and becomes more creamy and sweet in texture on the palate.
At 24 plus hours, the bittiness has disappeared, the color has lightened à la a purple pinot noir, and a light violet-cherry-walnut nose. There is more prominent tannin, salted butter popcorn, good energy on the finish. There is still a very small note of volatility, which probably would have disappeared with a more vigorous initial decant. The crowd at Trinity Church's Mardi gras pancake supper happily enjoyed it with a medium-quality Stilton from Murray's, which would have done well to buy a better wheel, IMO.
Fully mature. Drink now through 2020. (92 pts.)
