"The New Douro"

[Roy Hersh]

Fifteen years ago, two things happened in the fine Douro vintage of 2004; still today my all-time favorite for Douro wines, yes, every bit as good as 2011 for those that don't have many 2004's in their cellar. I am grateful to still cellar a couple dozen bottles of Douro wines from that great year.

So what developments took place that year?
In February 2004 the very first FTLOP Newsletter was published; almost exactly 1.5 years prior to the launch of this website. Few people were talking about Portugal or Portuguese wines back then. The quantity of friendships that have developed around the globe and number of people that have discovered Portuguese wines and have since visited Portugal to taste Ports and table wines (from the 14 major regions in that country), is likely the legacy of this website and the newsletter, no less discussions on this Forum.

But a far more far reaching dynamic came to life in 2004, thanks to Paul Symington, Dirk Niepoort and Cristiano van Zeller and their common cause; to promote the non-fortified table wines from the Douro Valley region while doing everything in their power to raise the bar on the quality of Douro wines; (which had been produced in the region since the end of WW2).

This was a monumental development in the still early days of modern Douro wines, as the next generation of prominent producers stepped into the big shoes of their fathers/antecedents. And in doing so, these 3 men, stalwarts from both traditional and renowned Port houses, decided that sharing ideas with one another while developing and promoting Douro still wines, was for the good of the region, putting that dynamic even before their own companies. Collaborating, cooperating and creating alliances ... instead of past competitive rivalries, was a brilliant new approach. This took place the year prior to the Douro Boys being formed. Known as The New Douro, the aforementioned three wise men were behind the earliest push to produce world-class DOC Douro wines. Their vision has become a great success and their original idea has continued to spread and other companies have joined them:

The New Douro Wineries today:

Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape Vinhos) / Duas Quintas (Ramos Pinto) / Duorum Vinhos/ Lavradores de Feitoria / Poeira / Niepoort / Nova Quinta do Sagrado / Poças / Quinta da Boavista + Quinta das Tecedeiras / Quinta da Gaivosa (Alves de Sousa) / Quinta de São José / Quinta de la Rosa / Quinta do Crasto + Roquette&Cazes / Quinta do Noval / Quinta do Pessegueiro / Quinta da Romaneira / Quinta do Vallado / Quinta dos Murças/ Quinta Nova / Quinta Vale D. Maria / Quinta do Vale Meão / Real Companhia Velha / Symington /Prats & Symington / Vertiçe / Wine&Soul

[Rune EG]

Very nice and interesting article Roy! The development of Douro wines is like a revolution in an area that for several hundred years had prime focus on another product (port wine).

In addition to Symington, Niepoort and van Zeller, I think that Ramos Pinto (which also came from a long-standing port company), Crasto and Sogrape/Casa Ferreirinha should be added to the list of companies that really influenced and stayed in lead of the Douro wines developments since late 90s/early 2000s.

I agree that FTLOP through the newsletters, Forum and numerous tours in the Douro has been an important factor in “spreading the word” about Douro wines. But there were also other information channels. As for myself, the interest in the developments of Douro wines started in 2000, nine years before being a FTLOP-member in 2009.

I still remember two of the first Douro wines I had, which was 1998 Crasto red (consumed 2000) and 1996 Niepoort Redoma (consumed 2001).

2004 was undoubtedly a fantastic Douro wine year. But since then the winemakers of Douro wines have also had their learning curve and are producing better and better wines when it comes to structure (incl. oak) and acidity/sweetness balance. If I had to choose from the Douro wine vintages since late 90s, I prefer Douro wines from the vintages 2009 and 2011.

[Andy Velebil]

Very nice and interesting article Roy! The development of Douro wines is like a revolution in an area that for several hundred years had prime focus on another product (port wine).

In addition to Symington, Niepoort and van Zeller, I think that Ramos Pinto (which also came from a long-standing port company), Crasto and Sogrape/Casa Ferreirinha should be added to the list of companies that really influenced and stayed in lead of the Douro wines developments since late 90s/early 2000s.

I agree that FTLOP through the newsletters, Forum and numerous tours in the Douro has been an important factor in “spreading the word” about Douro wines. But there were also other information channels. As for myself, the interest in the developments of Douro wines started in 2000, nine years before being a FTLOP-member in 2009.

I still remember two of the first Douro wines I had, which was 1998 Crasto red (consumed 2000) and 1996 Niepoort Redoma (consumed 2001).

2004 was undoubtedly a fantastic Douro wine year. But since then the winemakers of Douro wines have also had their learning curve and are producing better and better wines when it comes to structure (incl. oak) and acidity/sweetness balance. If I had to choose from the Douro wine vintages since late 90s, I prefer Douro wines from the vintages 2009 and 2011.

I generally agree with your assessment. As someone who bought a ton of Douro wines from the 1990's onward, cellaring them and now pulling them out to see how they are coming along, there was a large learning curve during the 2000 decade. Speaking generally here, but it does encompass many producers both large and small; The biggest issue to me was the very judicial use of new oak. The other being what type of year makes great Douro wines.

Too many were using way too much new oak. To be fair that was the style round the world if you wanted "Parker Points" and while it garnered some good scores early on it obscured the uniqueness and the quality of many wines. By the tail end of the decade some producers realized this and started slowly dialing it back. Douro wines don't need tons of new oak and the resulting extra wood tannins that come along as a side product.

As for years, IMO for example, 2004 is generally not turning out as great as initially thought and 2005 wines are holding up and maturing much better. I also think the making "international" style of wines isn't good for the region in the long run. Make something that sets you apart not that can be replaced by any one of a million wines from around the globe that taste the same.

All that said, it has been really fun to be-along-for-the-ride all this time and watch a wine region grow, stumbling in their youth and then maturing into adulthood. The Douro is producing better wines than ever before.

[Roy Hersh]

Rune wrote:
In addition to Symington, Niepoort and van Zeller, I think that Ramos Pinto (which also came from a long-standing port company), Crasto and Sogrape/Casa Ferreirinha should be added to the list of companies that really influenced and stayed in lead of the Douro wines developments since late 90s/early 2000s.

Roy's comment: Well what I first posted, was the 3 men who created The New Douro. Your assertion about Crasto proves the point. It was Cristiano van Zeller, (and one Australian) who first taught Jorge Roquette and the next generation of Roquette, how to make Douro wines. While I agree that Sogrape was an early force with Ferreirinha still wines, they had no play in/when The New Douro was created.

I agree that FTLOP through the newsletters, Forum and numerous tours in the Douro has been an important factor in “spreading the word” about Douro wines. But there were also other information channels. As for myself, the interest in the developments of Douro wines started in 2000, nine years before being a FTLOP-member in 2009.

Roy's comment: Yes, we were definitely not the first, but one of the very early birds solely talking about Portuguese wines on the internet. I was writing about Douro/Ports/Madeira since the mid-1990s on line. Initially for an extinct channel called, "Thrive" that was featured for AOL's (30 million users back in the day), starting in 1995 heading up as their Port guru, just as Burghound was doing back then for Burgundy too. Up until FTLOP came into being, my Portuguese wine articles appeared on the Wine Lover's Page, (as did Burghound when Allen Meadows was starting to gain his incredible rep). Mine were published in a distinct area called, "Words About Port" and on his website, I hosted the internet's very first LIVE global weekly wine chat, for Robin Garr's site for five years, which early and often focused on the wines and Port from northern Portugal, along with other wines too. Sure there were other individuals, but not many that were so focused on just the Port and Douro, (and Madeira too). Most of the others were doing so in print magazines and other areas beyond Portugal, like WS (Suckling) and (Jancis and Mayson and Broadbent) in Decanter and eventually their own books, website/blogs. I did not mean to give an impression that FTLOP was the very first. That was definitely not the case (being first).

I still remember two of the first Douro wines I had, which was 1998 Crasto red (consumed 2000) and 1996 Niepoort Redoma (consumed 2001).

Roy's comment: My very first case purchase of Douro wines on release was 1996 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional. However, that was not my first purchase of Douro wines, just my first ever case purchase. Then again, I also purchased 1991 Barca Velha (2 six packs) in 2000 or 2001 from a local distributor that couldn't find anyone to buy them. So they sold them to me for the price of $29 / bottle.


2004 was undoubtedly a fantastic Douro wine year. But since then the winemakers of Douro wines have also had their learning curve and are producing better and better wines when it comes to structure (incl. oak) and acidity/sweetness balance. If I had to choose from the Douro wine vintages since late 90s, I prefer Douro wines from the vintages 2009 and 2011.

Roy's comment: We can certainly disagree as to which is the best for our own palates, as 2009 and 2011 are exactly my two faves after 2004. Often overlooked, were some great DOC Douro wines in 2001 ... in my opinion the first vintage with some very high points; also some did very nicely in 2003, 2005, 2008, and 2012 all had several stars shining bright, if not very solid across the board.

Great post, Rune!

[Roy Hersh]

Andy wrote:

As for years, IMO for example, 2004 is generally not turning out as great as initially thought ...

Interesting, so which specific wines in particular, do you feel are not turning out as great as initially thought? I would like to revisit them if I own 'em.

I do agree with you that back a decade ago and before, some producers would over oak their wines. Crasto comes to mind as it took nearly a half decade for some of their 1996-2006 still wines to have the oak integrate. I believe 2007 was their first vintage where they started to tame their wines and not use 200% (an intentional exaggeration, but not far off) new oak.

[Eric Menchen]

Then again, I also purchased 1991 Barca Velha (2 six packs) in 2000 or 2001.

I believe 2007 was their first vintage where they started to tame their wines and not use 200% (an intentional exaggeration, but not far off) new oak.

Not in Portugal, but I know of a wine in Spain that does in fact use 200% new oak. Even I, who likes oak a lot, find that one to be too much.

[Roy Hersh]

Initials VS, Eric?

I just added another sentence to my 1991 Barca Velha mention.

[Andy Velebil]

Andy wrote:

As for years, IMO for example, 2004 is generally not turning out as great as initially thought ...

Interesting, so which specific wines in particular, do you feel are not turning out as great as initially thought? I would like to revisit them if I own 'em.

I do agree with you that back a decade ago and before, some producers would over oak their wines. Crasto comes to mind as it took nearly a half decade for some of their 1996-2006 still wines to have the oak integrate. I believe 2007 was their first vintage where they started to tame their wines and not use 200% (an intentional exaggeration, but not far off) new oak.

Take your pic. If served blind I would bet most people who like balance would end up preferring the majority of 2005's of a same given wine. Even from a producer who was probably ahead of the curve compared to most, Niepoort, who's 2005's are generally turning out better IME. As Rune mentioned, it was still a learning curve on many fronts. 2004 was the first really good dry wine year in most, if not all, the Douro in some time and it was one of the early "Modern" vintages. Around 2003-04 saw that massive shift in winemaking techniques and I really think most were flying by the seat of their pants. As time is carrying on small weaknesses are getting bigger. Heck, lots of producers are still are working out the learning curve. Port they've had centuries to develop great wines. Dry wines had largely been an afterthought until very recently. And to reiterate, I am not saying 2004's are bad. Far from it. I am simply comparing two vintages where one was held on a pedestal early on and one not so much.

I am also not knocking any producer, far from it. Part of the learning process is seeing what works and what doesn't and tweaking things as you realize what works and what doesn't so much. For some that learning curve has come a bit faster than others, which is to be expected. The important thing is I see a lot of self critiquing and work being done to this day to continue to improve and refine their products. That means only one thing, even better products in the future. It's been fun to watch and experience a well established wine region grow into new territories and I look forward to continuing to watch it...and enjoy some outstanding wines along the way too

[Eric Menchen]

Initials VS, Eric?
I just added another sentence to my 1991 Barca Velha mention.

No, the wine I was thinking of was N T.
Great price on the Barca Velha!

[Roy Hersh]

Andy wrote:

The important thing is I see a lot of self critiquing and work being done to this day to continue to improve and refine their products.

Yeah, true. However, I could say the same thing about most established wine appellations around the globe. Just because you don't hear that chatter in Burgundy and Bordeaux, doesn't mean it is not being said behind closed doors. I kid, of course. Still, you can choose most wine regions, in any country and hear that type of comments, even from established producers. Winemakers are like fine art painters, they are always questioning themselves and still see their own room for improvement.

You really need to go back to what you have left of your 2001's, or mine. That's where I believe we initially saw a pretty expansive group of excellent Douro wines for the first time and it was definitely not just limited to Crasto's 2001 Touriga Nacional, albeit that may be the star of the whole vintage. Mark Squires and I had a fun talk about that during the recent winter. He is a huge lover of 2001's. I've only had about ten to a dozen different producers from that vintage, but would have to agree with him. 2001 was a lot better than 2000 which got all the early praise when released.

Although you were at my home just a couple of years ago when we all put up 2004 Douro tintos; everybody at the table, (you included) were admiring them and expounding on their youth and that they needed more time to show even better. That is why I was asking you the question.

[Roy Hersh]

Eric wrote:

No, the wine I was thinking of was N T.
Great price on the Barca Velha!

Ok, I give up. NumanThia?

As for 1991 Barca Velha, I remember when the last bottle was drunk, although I've got no idea how it got that way.
By the way, the above bottle was downed in your presence in 2009 (IIRC) damn, that's a decade ago, when we first met at the very first FTLOP Anniversary party. You probably remember better than I do.

The price for those 12 ... just a matter of being in the right place at the right time.

[Eric Menchen]

Numanthia Termanthia. Their low end wine is (Numanthia) Termes, then there is just Numanthia, and finally the high price product Termanthia. Termanthia when I've had it is just a big oak bomb, made by putting the wine in fresh oak, and then transferring it to new fresh oak.

I do remember that 1991 Barca Velha. It was a tasty revelation.

[Roy Hersh]

I've never liked Numanthia for the same reason and spelled it funny solely because I did not know of the "T" but did know of the oak issue. Some people love that wine, I've never had one where I finished my glass ... and I really like Spanish wine overall.