The delicious contrasts of Portuguese wines [Dallas News]

[Mario Ferreira]

URL: http://www.dallasnews.com/sharedcontent ... ec628.html

The delicious contrasts of Portuguese wines

12:00 AM CST on Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Kim Pierce

These two wines – Famega Red Wine and the 2004 Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro DOC – are a study that reflects two directions of Portugal's winemaking beyond its emblematic, fortified ports.

Famega is better known for its vinho verde, an inexpensive but refreshing white kissed with light effervescence (and perfect for your holiday entertaining stash). The red wine comes in at about the same price – $6.99 at Central Market – with a stylish, Old World mix of berries and dryness that's made for food, such as soft cheeses and grilled meats.

Post Scriptum (P+S) takes us to Portugal's cutting edge at the high end. It's made as a companion to Chryseia, a joint venture between Bruno Prats – whose Bordeaux winemaking portfolio includes the distinguished Chateau Cos d'Estournel – and the Symington family, which owns some of Portugal's finest port houses, such as Dow's, Graham's and Warre's.

Chryseia and its vineyards are situated high in the upper Douro Valley on Symington land. But unlike Chryseia, Post Scriptum is meant to be consumed now.

Made with traditional Douro varietals and aged in French oak, it offers rich aromas of black cherry, cassis and leather edged with Douro dustiness, which darken and deepen in your mouth, lingering and tugging gently at your cheeks. The highest classification of Portuguese wine, a DOC, or Denominação de Origem Contralada, this wine also honors Old World styling. It begs for a juicy steak or braised lamb shank. It's $29.99 at Pogo's.

Kim Pierce