Tasting the 1715 Terratez

[Alan Gardner]

Faced with the ‘problem’ of following a comparative tasting of two bottlings of the 1720 Pather, we decided to try the oldest known wine – The 1715 Terrantez!

There have always been ‘suspicions’ about this wine. I ‘thought’ there was a review in Noel Cossart’s book – but upon searching, I can’t find it there. But wherever it originated, my recollection is that the review ‘suggested’ that the wine may have been fortified AFTER the ‘processing’ (presumably Canteiro) just before bottling in around 1750. Stencilled JCA & C, Terratez 1715. Regardless, I can only review what was served – it’s a bit difficult to construct a tasting of wines fortified 260 years ago vs. fortified 310 years ago and stored under similar conditions!

The Madeiras: As always, our group uses a different scale but I have ‘converted’ to the 100 point system

1715 JCA & C Terratez

Visually shows the characteristic olive rim, but the centre a medium bronze. First impression was a lack of acidity, showing considerable sweetness as a result. Initially seemed a bit simple with distinct orange peel notes, but on the palate this evolved into a deeper flavour, reminding me of chocolate covered coffee beans. Overall quite sweet, but the alcohol seemed a bit separate from the flavours (or maybe I was influenced by the suggestion of ‘late fortification’). The finish started drier but then became sweeter again, with some muscat/raisin notes. Overall, I found the ‘separate’ alcohol the most troubling issue. Rating 91 points.

1840 Boal Solera – Borges

The acidity showed immediately here, but again, the alcohol did not seem fully integrated (maybe earlier decanting would have helped). Many fruit notes, dominated by apricots and tangerine, suggesting still a good life ahead, but the acidity continued into the finish, leaving at a little short (or perhaps better – medium finish). At the end almost a bitterness (my notes feature ‘smokiness’ and ‘cough syrup’). Rating 91 points.

1862 Vintage Malvasia – D. Bolger

Deep rich flavours – clearly Malvasia, with molasses notes. A good amount of balancing acidity, without being obtrusive, The richness continued through to a long finish but although this was a good, clean flavour right through I wanted a bit more complexity, Safe and correct, rather than ‘wow’. The very long finish evolved into a honey like taste, reminiscent of botrytis. Rating 92 points.

5 year-old Medium Dry Tinta Negra – Miles

This was also served as a palate cleanser – difficult to assess in this company. In the past I’ve found Miles to be a bit sweeter than other MWC brands but this was definitely on the drier side. Good, middle-of-the-road, pleasant ‘quaff’ – not complex but pleasant dry finish. Rating 86 points.

One of the other attendees wrote this up on Wine Berserkers – here if anybody wants a different viewpoint:
https://www.wineberserkers.com/t/tns-m- ... 715/328183

[Eric Ifune]

Nice!