This was a bottle I purchased at auction that ended up part of a strange mixup. I purchased this and a 1985 Fonseca at the same time. This bottle was advertised as exceptional condition while the Fonseca was advertised as showing signs of seepage. I paid an appropriate amount for the bottles as described, getting the Fonseca for a nice discount ($65) and the Sandeman for a fairly normal $80.
When they arrived, however, I discovered that the descriptions had been reversed. The Fonseca was in pristine condition and this Sandeman bottle showed signs of seepage and had a slightly pushed cork. I notified the auction house of the error, but was more than happy to keep the bottles as reversing the prices still seemed like a good deal to me.
So... on to the Port...
The cork extracted smoothly and only a small chip broke, but remained attached and came out cleanly. It was soaked completely through but intact and appeared to be a quality cork. The bottom of the cork glittered with crystalized sugar. So I remained hopeful.
The Port was very light while decanting... not fading to pink yet, but very obviously not purple. Once in the decanter it could best be described as a bright ruby red. The color made me think of strawberries, which in my head is somehow distinct from raspberry. My decanter has a very deep punt which extends above the level of the decanted wine, so my color perceptions tend to be a little brighter and lighter than you'd get from a more normal decanter, but I like the result.
While decanting an aroma of strawberries and red raspberries floated into the room. Unlike the scent from the 1985 Warre's that I had several months ago which exploded into the room, the Sandeman's aroma was more gentle and leisurely. The Warre's was a marching band parading through the house... the Sandeman a jazz string quartet in the next room.
In the glass the aroma was more concentrated and also contained a hint of smoke. No stewed tomatoes, though, so again there was hope that the bottle was fine. Oddly, the alcohol was detectable but came after the other smells. I normally smell the alcohol first.
It's smooth in the mouth, but not velvety. There's something coarse about it... perhaps raw silk. The flavors match the nose, including the slight hint of smoke, and the tannins are still firm and gripping. The tannins came as quite a surprise because I assumed they would be gone (or at least completely integrated) in a Port this light in color. There is also a very slight bite right as you swallow - something I normally associate with a too-young aged tawny. The heat was slightly above my preference, but I wouldn't call it hot.
The finish begins smoothly with a faint hint of poblano peppers and grape stem. That may be the continuation of the smoke that I could both smell and taste. It is smooth and even, gently fading out after a minute or two. Near the end of the finish there's a clear bubble gum note that surprises.
Overall a fine Port, but it either still needs more time or it was damaged in some strange way. I would rate it above the '85 Warre's I had, but below the '70 Taylor. The Warre's was too soft compared to this, while the Taylor was simply better in all respects. Sorry it can't be more precise - my experience is still a bit limited.
