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For The Love Of Port
June 2005
9th Issue

Article and photos © copyright 2004 by Roy Hersh

Dear friends of Port wine,

No one who knows me would normally describe me as naïve, but little did I realize the impact of my words in the May edition of FTLOP newsletter. That all changed over the past few weeks, after I featured a piece in issue #8, entitled: Ranking the Port Shippers and Producers: The Top 30.
 
After publication, I rather quickly received around a half dozen emails and even a phone call one very early morning, from principals within the Port trade. It seems that my placement of Shippers and Producers into a “tier system” caused a minor commotion and certainly a few discussions. I no longer have any claims of naïveté as a writer.
 
As with each and every segment that is included in FOR THE LOVE OF PORT, considerable thought went into the rankings as well as the parameters utilized to determine the placement within the various tiers. As a Port loving amateur journalist, I lacked the perspective to foresee the train wreck just around the bend. In all fairness, the emails were extremely professional and polite. However, they were clear as an azure sky in summer, and their “suggestions” left little to the imagination. One such respected industry respondent explained that these rankings could take on more historical significance than he believed I had realized. Humility tastes better, when sprinkled with sugar and consumed for breakfast.
 
Although it would have been easy to ignore or to politely brush these comments aside, I realized that within a week, I would be facing a few of these same gents whom had penned critiques, in person. So, with honesty as the best policy, no excuses were offered and I did my best to provide specific details, stating my case backing up the rankings.
 
Last Thursday, as Nero’s violins played loudly within my skull, I entered the large banquet room to taste a wonderful cross-section of 2003 Vintage Port cask samples. It was time to face the music. For the sake of brevity, fortunately, along with my rankings, I was at the butt end of some very humorous teasing. “Sorry Roy, we can’t pour this 2nd tier Port for YOU today.” And so it went.
 
I even had to face my good friend Bartholomew Broadbent that afternoon, who wondered aloud why I had left his fine Ports out of my Top 30 list, altogether. My simple, tongue-firmly-planted-in-cheek response was, “well Bartholomew, by doing so, I am now able to use your name as a prime example of my not playing favorites.” Lucky for me, he has a fine sense of humor.
 
Certainly less controversial, this month’s newsletter has some recent tasting notes of 50 and 60 year old Vintage Port. Additionally, there is a timely report on “NEW” regulations just released by the Port and Douro Wine Institute. It is the first time these regulations are appearing anywhere in the world, in English. In the “what do you want to be when you grow up” category, I have provided the specifics of an entrepreneurial plan for my near-future career aspirations. Also, enjoy the view of some intriguing Port statistics!
 
Last but not least, my website FOR THE LOVE OF PORT will go live, later this summer. The newsletter, archives of past articles and tasting notes, interactive message board, dozens of relevant links, industry guests etc. will all continue without any subscription fee. After all, it is truly for the love of Port that I do this. As you will read, I will soon have access to more picture taking (which I love), visitation of Lodges, Quintas and vineyard sites, as well as both Port and Madeira wine. I look forward to sharing many fun stories for years to come. More details to follow, as they progress.
 
Thanks for your supPort!
 
Roy
 
 
CONTENTS:
~ A New Career Direction: Converting a passionate hobby into a new career
~ Port Exports to: The United States
~ Tasting Notes: Ports from 1945, 1955 , 1965 and my first ever, 100 pt. Port
~ Roy’s Port Website Recommendation: The Port and Douro Wine Institute
~ New Regulations from the IVDP: Changes to various Special Categories
~ PortoLover's Mailbag: Letters and e-feedback
~ Coming in the July issue: 2003 Vintage Port Forecast

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DOWNSTAIRS IN THE PORT CELLAR Photo© by Roy Hersh 6/28/03

 

FOLLOWING A DREAM TO A NEW CAREER DIRECTION

We don’t always see them coming, but passages are not to be taken lightly when they finally become evident.

Nearly twenty five years have passed since I devoted my life’s work to the hospitality industry, in one form or another. I have worked for a ski resort, a plethora of restaurants, a meat processing company, a purveyor of seafood, a pair of prominent airports, a produce import company, a variety of hotels, as well as consulting for a casino group, restaurant consortium, a wine importing company, a group of 5 golf resorts and a state fair. I have spent my entire adult life working around food and beverages, making sure customers were always satisfied and corporate costs were carefully controlled. I have been to the crossroads before and enjoyed the sweeping changes that took place at the time. Just a few years shy of 50 now; I am ready for the next passage in life.

After spending the past half year considering options and spending lots of wonderful time with our young daughter, (named after the Port in the accompanying picture) a close friend in Portugal approached to discuss entering into a joint venture. It took me less than 24 hours to say “yes” to this great opportunity.

My previous career was satisfying, but now is the perfect time to do something for the love of it. For the past decade or more, I have thought long and hard about how to combine my knowledge and passion for Port and earn a living at the same time. I have rebuked all offers to be a Port salesman, as that would be the quickest way for me to fall out of love. Making Port would be a dream-come-true, but is unrealistic at this point. Fortunately, I think I’ve found the second best possibility.

Along came the phone call from Portugal, and we discussed the possibilities. We agreed that our complementary talents would provide us with all the tools necessary to start a travel business. Having guests meet us in Portugal, and hosting unique “insiders” wine & food tours of the Port and Madeira regions, would be a great way to introduce many new explorers to the flavors of these brave old worlds.

Currently, we’re organizing the logistics to make this a reality and although we’d love to host a group prior to the hot summer months, realistically our first trip will not take place until October. By then, we’ll be prepared to provide one-of-a-kind wine, food and cultural experiences with intricate and dazzling itineraries. With my partner and me as the guides on every trip, we’ll be able to offer the most comprehensive view of the Port and Madeira areas possible. We plan to feature visits to wine properties great and small, unique catered extravaganzas and the opportunity to meet the key players in both wine regions, not to mention the chance to try some incredible wines along the way. addition to guiding wine enthusiasts through two of the most beautiful places on earth, we will also concentrate our efforts to assist the trade in reshaping the image of Port and Madeira, in order to attract new, younger visitors and consumers. More information will be available in the near future.

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At-a-glance report on Port exports to the USA

7 YEAR HISTORY, CATEGORIZED BY PORT STYLE - (TOTAL CASES)

Port Style 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
(through May)
White 9,033 7,514 7,778 7,579 7,938 10,717 4,027
Ruby 52,205 61,011 56,159 62,778 69,987 75,284 29,460
Tawny 44,849 49,070 53,402 61,186 57,679 69,186 24,521
Vintage 57,261 28,745 13,517 48,037 16,377 12,111 3,761
LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) 33,530 44,091 28,404 32,954 32,349 39,071 13,363
Colheita (Single Vuintage Tawny) 3,596 4,291 3,023 3,704 2,733 3,107 2,009
Tawny w/Indication of Age 49,329 49,813 50,505 61,749 68,512 81,558 27,382
Vintage Character / "Reserve" Ruby 105,874 116,373 124,368 127,268 110,314 127,402 38,645
Reserva Tawny 4,961 1,954 1,147 1,575 2,620 2,630 1,134
Crusted 0 0 198 504 378 238 90
Total 360,638 362,862 338,501 407,334 368,887 421,304 144,392
 
 
BIRTH YEAR PORTS FOR THOSE TURNING 40, 50 and 60 YEARS OLD,
PLUS MY “FIRST EVER” 100 POINT VINTAGE PORT WINE EXPERIENCE
 
1965 Rocha Colheita Port – The Rocha, (part of the Barros stable of Ports along with Kopke) is showing a light tawny color with a greenish tinge to the meniscus. Fine warm aromatics of marzipan, maple syrup and toasted nuts. I really liked the gracefully smooth softness of this Colheita which enveloped my entire palate and was lifted by the perfect dose of acidity. Highlighting walnuts rather than hazelnuts, which I often find in Rocha's aged Colheitas, on the medium length finish, those celebrating their 40th birthday or anniversary will have a tough time finding anything better than this from ‘65. 92 points

1955 Graham’s Vintage Port – A long and warm growing season gave way to extremely high temperatures in early September, but rains were badly needed in the Upper Douro and finally came at the end of the first week of Sept. Fortunately, excellent conditions prevailed throughout the entire harvest. Large bunches and large grapes were abundant and those that were patient to begin picking were rewarded with richly flavored grapes. Many 1955s today are still very well-balanced and concentrated VPs. Most bottling took place in London and these bottlings are easier to come by today than those from Portugal. This bottle was clearly stored perfectly. I have enjoyed the '55 Graham's on numerous occasions and this bottle showed extremely well. The color was a solid garnet with just the slightest evidence of bricking on the edge. It showed far less evolution than some of my other bottles. This Graham’s is offering spicy and herbal notes with mint, violet and lavender aromas. Great purity of Elderberry fruit here with a hint of anise and a slight touch of spirit. Impressively young and seemingly, this bottle could have continued to age well for 2+ decades. 97 points

1945 Sandeman Vintage Port – Rich, dense, with youthfulness that belies the true age of this fine VP. Due to the preserved ruby and a rim which showed little development, most guesses at the table were in the mid-1980 range and only one person thought “1970” out loud. Offering a great nose of rose petals, spicy cinnamon and licorice. This Port provided palate pleasing plump red berry fruit and sweet grenadine flavors that were quite appealing, with concentrated flavors that improved in the glass. Overall, a skillfully balanced VP providing a smooth, velvety finish with candied nut nuances that kept on coming. As good a showing as any ’45 Sandeman I’ve experienced. Drink now or anytime during the next decade. A great wine to toast a 60th birthday! 94 points
 
1994 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port – Let me start by saying that this is only the 2nd wine I have ever anointed with a perfect score and the first Port. I’ve enjoyed this VP on a handful of memorable occasions and it has always provided a great deal of pleasure. The last time I had this wine in February, it was not showing as well as I have come to expect. However, the previous two times I had this wine, it deservedly scored 99 points. It is without doubt the greatest Nacional since the superlative 1963 (which is saying a lot). Inky black in color, the ‘94 provides the pure essence of grapes with some mocha and cinnamon spice. On the palate this Nacional delivers absolutely delicious juice that is not only very approachable today, but has all the stuffing to see the next century. No, not decade … century! The overall structure is apparent in every sip with enormous power. I’ll probably wait to drink my 1 bottle until my daughter’s wedding day. This provided one of the most intense and lingering aftertastes of any wine I’ve ever had. Sixty years from now people will talk about this “legendary Port” as we do the 1931 Nacional today! 100 points
 
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Roy's Monthly Port Website Recommendation :

 

For June, I have again selected the Port and Douro Wine Institute (IVDP) as it is one of the greatest resources for information on Port, anywhere.

This quasi-governmental organization was founded in 1933 (coincidentally the final year of America’s Prohibition). It is wholly responsible for the regulation and promotion of the Port and table wines of the Douro River Valley wine region. Please have a look at: http://www.ivp.pt/

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Are you hunting for a job this season?     

Perhaps you'll find your dream job in the wine industry at this website where you can post your résumé, search for openings and apply for jobs at wineries, restaurants and hotels in North America, Australia or Europe.  I know both founding partners of this website, from when I first moved to Washington State.  We all worked for the same company and then they had this great idea.  I am happy to see how well their venture has taken off and their greatest success is the number of people they have helped.  Dozens of wineries participate and  Wineandhospitalityjobs.com is a winner.  So, go check it out and begin 2005 with a bang!

 

*** Feature article  ***

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NEW REGULATIONS FROM THE IVDP
“Regulation for the Special Categories of Port Wine”

It is the responsibility of the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (Port and Douro Wine Institute, or IVDP) to regulate and monitor many facets of the Port wine industry as well as to promote Port wine throughout the world. Once a new regulation is to go into effect, it must first be published in the official governmental gazette, Diário da Republica. This daily newspaper prints all the laws and regulations decided upon and approved by the Portuguese Parliament, which is based in Lisbon. The new law officially goes into effect the moment of its publication and is made part of the public record.
 
The official nomenclature of the “Special Categories” of Port, as well as the laws governing these categories, has now been officially ratified by the IVDP’s Board of Directors. You are seeing the very first English language version of the new regulations. “Special categories” refers to the specific Port types such as Vintage, LBV, Colheita, etc.
 
I have been aware that modifications to existing laws were in the works, but not until I knew they appeared in the Diário da Republica on May 17th 2005, was I able to request that Mario Ferreira, the IVDP’s Marketing Coordinator and “unofficial Port Ambassador to North America,” translate them from Portuguese to English for this newsletter.
I am very grateful for his hard work in helping with the text that follows. Please note that the translation may vary slightly due to the difference in languages, and is an unofficial translation of the original document. I explained to Mario, that it would be a great service to those reading, FOR THE LOVE OF PORT, to understand the new regulations and be able to see the new names and regulations within the categories. PLEASE NOTE: The text below is of a semi-technical nature and is meant for those with a serious interest in Port wine, or those in the wine business. Of course, it can be read and enjoyed by anyone who has an interest in learning more about Port wine.
 
THE PORT AND DOURO WINE INSTITUTE (IVDP)
 
 
Article 1: Special Categories
 
1 – The Special Categories of Port have been using traditional classifications (i.e. LBV, Vintage, Ruby, Tawny), which are also recognized by the current regulation which is associated to the aforementioned Denomination of Origin and are also regulated to the physical and organoleptic characteristics and also to the rules stated in this Regulation.
 
Article 2: Vintage Port
 
1 – “Vintage” - Port wine must already possess organoleptic characteristics (Roy’s Note: “organoleptic characteristics” = pertaining to the senses of taste, smell and texture) of exceptional quality, which is from the fruit of only one harvest, full red color and full-bodied, with fine aromas and flavors, recognized by the “The Douro and Port Wine Institute” (IVDP) with the right to use the Vintage Port designation and corresponding vintage year, in the terms of the following statements.
 
2 – To get approval for the designation “Vintage”, the Port cask samples should be delivered to the IVDP, in the 3rd week of the months from January to June of the 2nd year after the harvest, four sample bottles of the wine to be analysed, representative of the whole blend.
 
3 – At least 15 days before the beginning of the bottling, the Port producers and shippers may request that the IVDP provide an evaluation of the characteristics of the effective blends made to be bottled.
 
4 – At the beginning of the bottling, whose date should be announced to the IVDP, the Institute will collect five sample bottles and record the amount of the bottled wine, and wine in bulk.
 
5 – The last bottling should be made no later than by July 30th of the 3rd year counting from the year of the harvest and must be announced to the IVDP to update their official log.
 
6 – The commercialization, understood as the moment in which the product is introduced into the market place; can only start after May 1st of the 2nd year counting from the respective harvest.
 
7 – At the bottling line, dark glass bottles and natural cork closures should be utilized.
 
Article 3: Late Bottled Vintage or LBV
 
1 – “Late Bottled Vintage” or “LBV” - a Port wine must already posses high organoleptic characteristics, from the fruit of only one harvest, red color and full-bodied, of fine aroma and palate, recognized by the IVDP with express right to use the designation, in the terms of the following statements:
 
2 – To get Late Bottled Vintage or “LBV” approval should be delivered at the IVDP, between March 1st and September 30th of the 4th year counting from the harvest, four bottles samples of the wine to be analysed, representative of the whole blend to be made.
 
3 – At least 15 days before the beginning of the bottling, the economic agents (producers and merchants) may request of the IVDP, an evaluation of the characteristics of the effective blends made to be bottled.
 
4 – At the beginning to the bottling, whose date should be announced to the IVDP, the Institute will collect five bottles samples and record the amount of the wine bottled and in bulk.
 
5 – The last bottling may be made through December 31st of the 6th year counting from the year of the harvest and announced to the IVDP in order to update their records.
 
6 – The introduction of these Ports to the market place can commence immediately following approval and their registration with the IVDP.
 
7 – Port wine with the right to use Late Bottled Vintage or the LBV designation, and is then matured in bottled for a minimum period of 3 years, may use the nomenclature “Bottle matured” or “Envelhecido em garrafa”, if in Portuguese.
 
8 – In the case referred to in the previous paragraph, the Shipper/Producer must advise the IVDP, at the moment of the respective bottling, their intention to reserve some given quantity of wine for “Bottled matured” or “Envelhecido em garrafa.” This label will be approved after the required time in bottle, as previously mentioned.
 
Article 4: Port wine with date of harvest – “Colheita”
 
1 – “Colheita” or “Port Wine With Harvest Date” - Port wine, red or white, with high organoleptic characteristics from one harvest only, matured in wood for the minimum period of seven years after the harvest and recognized by the IVDP with the express right to use the designation, in the terms of the following statements:
 
2 – To get approval for Colheitas or Port wine with indication of harvest date, may be delivered at the IVDP, beginning September 1st of the 7th year counting from the date of the harvest, six sample bottles of the wine to be analyzed and approved without the possibility of making corrections to the wine.
 
3 – The introduction of these Ports to the market place can commence immediately following approval and their registration with the IVDP.
 
4 – Port wine with the right to use the term, “indication of harvest date” and after its wood maturation is kept inside glass receptacles for a minimum period of eight years, and bottled right after, could use the mention “Garrafeira”. (Roy’s Note: Garrafeira is the rarest category of Port and is basically a Colheita which is then stored in glass demijohns. Niepoort is the most well-known producer of this style of Port).
 
5 - In the case referred to in the previous paragraph, the Shipper/Producer must advise the IVDP, at the moment of the respective bottling, their intention to reserve some given quantity of wine for “Garrafeira”, whose label will be approved after the required time in cask and glass, as previously mentioned in paragraph 4.
 
6 – Port wine with the right to use “indication of harvest date” and aged for a period over 10 years may use the nomenclature, “Old” or Velho, and if it’s aged for over 40 years it may use the mention “Very Old” or Muito Velho.
 
Article 5: "Tawny Port with an Indication of Age”
 
1 – “Tawny Port with an Indication of Age” - Port wine with high organoleptic characteristics, derived from wines matured in wood and a blend of several vintages in order to get complementary organoleptic characteristics recognized by the IVDP with express right to use the designation, in the terms of the following statements:
 
2 – The age specified in print on the label expresses the characteristics of the wine in respect to the organoleptic qualities created by the ageing in cask, which corresponds to the indicated age.
 
3 – To get the designation “Tawny Port with an Indication of Age” approved, six sample bottles should be delivered to the IVDP of the wine to be analyzed, representative of the blend produced.
 
4 – The ages authorized for labelling as “Tawny Ports with an Indication of Age” are: a) 10 years old b) 20 years old c) 30 years old d) “More than 40 years old” for all countries except the USA, in which this should be labeled “40 years old.” (Roy’s Note: American authorities did not approve the nomenclature, “More than 40 years Old” as they considered it a vague term.)
 
5 – Tawny Port wine with an indication of age of 10 years, 20 years or 30 years may use mention “Velho” or “Old” and for an indication of age more than 40 years old, it can use the verbiage “Muito Velho” or “Very old.”
 
Article 6: Crusted Port
 
1 – “Crusted” - Port Wine with organoleptic characteristics of high quality, full red color and full bodied, at the time of bottling. It is in possession of fine aromas and flavors, obtained by the blending of wines of several years in order to achieve complementary organoleptic qualities, which will lead to the creation of sediment or a “crust” on the side of the bottle. The formation of the crust takes place as part of the maturation process, recognized by the IVDP with express right to use the designation, in the terms of the following statements:
 
2 – To get previous authorization for the “Crusted” designation, four sample bottles should be delivered at the IVDP of the wine to be analyzed, that should be representative of the organoleptic characteristics referred in the previous paragraph.
 
3 – The bottling of the wine analyzed previously for the “Crusted” designation, should be completed within 30 days of the evaluation, and the IVDP should be advised of the completion of the bottling process in order to record the quantities.
 
4 – The final recording of the wine previously evaluated is required to get approval for the introduction to the market place. It can only be made after the minimum of three years from the date of the previous approval, (referred to in # 2), the bottles must show the build up of sediment.
 
5 – The Port wine with the right to use the term “Crusted” is permitted to use the designation “Bottle matured” or “Envelhecido em garrafa” (Roy’s Note: which means bottle matured in Portuguese.)
 
Article 7: Reserva or Reserve Port
 
1 – “Reserva” or “Reserve” - Port Wine with organoleptic characteristics of very good quality, showing complexity in its aroma and flavor, achieved by the blending of wines in various stages of maturation that provide the wine specific organoleptic characteristics.
 
2 - To receive approval for the designation “Reserva”, six sample bottles should be delivered to the IVDP, which are representative of the blend produced for the “White” and “Tawny” Ports, or for the production of the “Ruby” blend. (Roy’s Note: “Reserve Ruby” replaces the term “Vintage Character”)
 
3 – Port Wine with the approval to use the designation “Reserva” or “Reserve” showing a red or full red color may in addition use the term “Ruby.”
 
4 – If the Port wine “Reserva” or “Reserve”, made from red or white grapes, is matured in wood for a minimum period of seven years, it can use the term “Tawny” or “Branco” or ”White” respectively.
 
5 – To the specific designation of “Reserva” or “Reserve” one and only one of the following terms can be added: “Especial” or “Special” or “Finest.” (Roy’s Note: for example, “Special Reserve” or “Reserva Especial” or “Finest Reserve”.)
 
Article 8: Common Clauses
 
1 – For wines with the right to use the designations referred to in this regulation, with exception to “Reserve” or “Ruby Reserve”, the quantities will be kept on record by the IVDP.
 
2 – The record of accounts indicating the specific vintage or year of the harvest for each Port company will be indexed along with the production for each specific year, in the official register of the IVDP.
 
 
3 – The Port wine classifications as specified in the official regulation document, must adhere to the specific sensory criteria, as noted. (Roy’s Note: there are rating points given for color, aroma, flavor, finish etc. and each specific category must meet a minimum standard score for that special category of Port, in order to receive approval to use that designation.)
 
Article 9: Final Clauses
 
1 – The use of the terms related to the vintage or year of harvest and to the year of bottling as well as other specific items in these new regulations can only occur in the conditions stated in the regulation or legislation.
 
2- It is forbidden to use other terms, designations, brands, indications or any other sign or term not stated in the current regulation or legislation.
 
Article 10: Revoked Regulation
 
The regulation of the Special Categories approved by the General Council of the IVP on November 27th, 1973 is hereby revoked, with the exception of the Dispositions related to labelling, that will remain in effect until the revision of the regulation of the designation and presentation of Port wine of December 12, 1990, and the official directive #7 June 3rd 1997 and #12 of August 28th 1997.
 
Article 11: Effective Date of the New Regulations
 
The present regulation will be in effect at the moment of its publication in the Diário da República.
Signed on April 18th, 2005. – by The Board of Directors of the IVDP.
 
Again, my sincere thanks to Mario Ferreira for creating the translated version of these regulations for this newsletter, shared here, for the rest of the world.
 
Should you be interested in some of my other recent articles on Port, please visit the
Article Archive
 
 
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Portugal’s Pyramids: Terraces in the Douro
Photo by permission of Mario R. Ferreira © 2004

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~ Letters and e-feedback:
 

This is where your influence counts!  You send in your questions on Port, suggestions for improving this newsletter or ideas for future consideration.  I do my very best to respond to each and every email I receive and include some of those responses to the questions, here:

Hi Roy,

I was delighted to see your e-mail and Issue #8 in my in-box this morning; it was the first one I read. Thanks so much for including me in your distribution list, your newsletter fills a big gap for me and remains one of the best places I have found for detailed information on Port. Your comment that a 40 year old VP still costs less than a modern first growth couldn't be more right-on - what have I been thinking? That comment alone has changed the way I'm going to think about buying older wines from now on.

I started drinking Port about ten years ago and today I not only enjoy VP but have also "discovered" Tawnies, Madeira and "stickies" from Australia. Which got me thinking: if I like all these red-based dessert wines I wonder if I would like white-based dessert wines, especially since I don't really appreciate white wines in general. Good news for me, I've taken to Sauternes, Tokaji, Ice Wine, etc. too. I noticed you mentioned Tokaji in passing in this newsletter - are you considering expanding the scope of your newsletter to other dessert wines aside from Port? Given your comments on your career change, I suspect you're very busy, but as I'm sure you know it's equally hard to find quality information and discourse on the many other types of dessert wines out there.

Last thought: a local retailer has three bottles of 1966 Grahams VP for sale. Since that's my birth year I'm very interested in it, would love to know your thoughts on quality (should I buy one?) and age-ability (should I buy all three?).

Many thanks again for your newsletter and great advice.

Matt MacIver, Charlotte, NC

Dear Matt,

Thanks for the great email. Before I make suggestions, I just want to let you know that in 95% of the cases, Madeira is considered a dessert wine made from WHITE grapes and can be added to your list of other white dessert wines you love … and it is Portuguese!

I am glad that you are now one of the "converts" and have come to realize the inherent value of Port. I have a friend who was complaining to me recently about the high pre-release prices of the 2003 Vintage Ports, saying he could buy 1985s for the same price and they’d be ready to drink now. Of course he is right, but then again, the value of having the new Vintage bottles aging in your own cellar to insure the long term provenance, adds lots of value to the equation. Buying older wines, without asking lots of questions, is always a "caveat emptor" situation, albeit VPs tend to be a hardy lot and not as susceptible as many other wines, to minor storage fluctuations.

That said, comparing the current price of a 1966 Graham, say $150 in the USA now, (I saw them selling for $130 on sale recently) versus that of any of the top 5 first growth Bordeaux from the same vintage, and you will have to admit that aged Vintage Ports are a fantastic bargain. Compare the same bottle of Graham (that you asked about) to ANY wine type that may still not only be alive at nearly 40 years old, but drink GREAT at this stage, (and will be a great wine when you celebrate your 50th birthday too) as the Graham’s 1966 certainly do, and there is just no reason to make further comparisons. Vintage Port, whether young or old, is not only a fantastic value … but when put into context of other great wines of the world, it is truly one of the most undervalued wines on the market.

For those quibbling about paying the early tranch (en primeur prices) offering for 2003s that are really wonderful wines, just think that the current release prices of better caliber CA Cabs like Ridge Monte Bello, Chateau Montelena or Phelps’ Insignia (to name 3 of my personal favorites), are all considerably more money! Now comparing the top echelon of 2003 Vintage Ports (see my last newsletter for Roy’s Top 30) to the top tier of California Cabs, better known as "Cult Cabs" and further comparison is a futile waste of time. I am done defending the pricing on Port wine, again and I do realize you were not the one presenting the challenge.

Lastly, although I may expand my center of attention from Port to other Portuguese dessert wine (Madeira in particular) or possibly even table wines in the future, I can say with confidence, that my newsletter will NEVER expand its focus beyond the borders of Portuguese properties.


Hello Roy, Can you please answer my following question: I would like to start collecting Port wine, but I'm not sure what I should invest in, especially in the last 10-15 years. Can you please advise me what the best vintage years to collect are? I thought I would start with this question first. I have so many, but I'll wait for your first response. Regards,

Wesley Wood Gilbert, Arizona USA

Dear Wesley,

At best, it is difficult to advise you without knowing more about your Port investment strategy and goals. I wish I knew your age and what sort of money you’d like to put towards your future drinking pleasure, and over how many years. So, please realize that this will have to be a generalized response to your question, as I am not aware of what you are trying to achieve in terms of size of the collection, depth of producers and vintages and many other parameters that would help me provide you with a more attuned response.

I suggest that you start off with some of the older and lesser appreciated vintages in which you can still find fabulous wines at reasonable prices. 1980 is a great example and there are lots of fine VPs that came from this vintage which are drinking brilliantly today. I would also look at both 1983 and 1985, but do not overlook some of the very fine wines that were produced in 1987. For example, I recently purchased another case of 1987 Quinta de Vargellas for a ridiculous price (and wish I had been smarter and had purchased two) and this wine can be cellared for another decade or two, although I am drinking them today, while many others in the cellar continue to age. 1991 and to a lesser extent the 1992 vintage, offer some excellent values if you get beyond the most obvious selections. Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta do Infantado, Croft, Niepoort, Warre and Martinez "Eira Velha," come immediately to mind. Another vintage that "got no respect" was 1995, which in its own right was a very fine vintage, but was all but forgotten in the shadows of the exemplary 1994.

Now make sure you use the Professional version of www.winesearcher.com and do your diligence. Ask all the right questions re: provenance, when seeking out cases or bottles for your cellar. Remember, when the price looks to attractive … there is a reason for that and it sometimes does not pay to save a few dollars per bottle. If making a serious purchase, ask the vendor to provide digital photos of the lot you are interested in. I do!

Good luck!


Mr. Hersh, I am not very knowledgeable regarding Port. We were recently given a bottle of 2000 Grahams Vintage Port as a gift. The only drinking window information that I could find said "Best after 2025"! If the '25 date is factual I will accept it and give the wine to my kids in my will, but is there any chance that we could drink it before then without committing infanticide? Is there a more tolerable waiting period than 20 years that would still allow this port to exhibit its better characteristics? Thank You,

Sam Platt

Kokomo, Indiana

Dear Sam,

What a very generous gift you have received. I need more friends like yours!

Drinking windows are very subjective. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder after all and 2025 was just one man’s opinion of the best time to drink the wine. I don’t disagree that your bottle of Graham’s will have evolved and will be showing much more intricate nuances by that point. However, I also think that this bottle could be opened today and enjoyed. Infanticide to me is younger than 15 years old, except if you want to open one bottle of a larger stash to appreciate it, in its youth. Otherwise, I personally prefer mature Port and wine in general. But, many wine lovers enjoy the fresh, bright primary fruit (think in terms of a big, young juicy California Cabernet vs. one 20 years old) of a young Vintage Port. It really depends on your taste preferences. There is almost no "wrong" time to drink a Vintage Port, except when you are driving! My suggestion is to look forward towards a major birthday, anniversary, or other great reason to open the bottle and do so. But make sure to share it with loved ones or close friends, as Port always tastes better that way!


Hello Roy,

Newsletter - Good stuff and most informative. Here’s a question to which you may have previously published a response: I turned 55 on January 1st (I typically nurse a nasty hangover on my birthday) – what is the latest vintage port I should buy? Should I even consider recent or upcoming vintages?

Will my taste buds shrivel and cease to function before my mind does?

Cheers,

Keith Goldstein, San Francisco

Dear Keith,

If I were you, I’d be very concerned about this. While you are at it, have your liver sent out for dry cleaning! It is the type of gift that keeps on giving, if you know what I mean.

If you have not heard yet, 2003 is the latest and greatest Vintage Port to be generally declared by the industry. I have tasted a number of the wines from this rather small harvest and have been quite impressed. After all, there really is a reason behind the tradition of only declaring Port vintages about 3 times per decade. But, at your age, I’d suggest that you invest in older vintages that are either ready to drink now, like 1955, 1963, 1966 and 1970 … OR … purchase vintages like 1977, 1980, 1983 and 1985 that can be consumed along the way, or kept in the cellar to improve during your remaining years. Since I know you, I can joke around about your age, but the advice given regarding what to buy, was not tongue in cheek.


Dear Roy,

I am truly blessed to have a wife who shares my love of wine, including Port. I'd love to find a special bottle from the year (1955) she was born, as she turns 50 in June this year. Can you direct me to how I might find something like this and do you have any recommendations?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Bill Fenlon (Who, alas, is not independently wealthy...)

Bill,

There are many fine 1955 Vintage Ports on the market. I opened a splendid bottle of Graham’s 1955 in May and those who joined me in drinking it loved every sip! Look to Sandeman, Cockburn, Quinta do Noval, Croft, Fonseca and Niepoort for excellent versions that are still remarkable wines today. The best way to find a bottle is to do your homework on www.winesearcher.com , and let your fingers do the walking. I love the 1955s right now, as they are really singing and wish I could drink them more often then I do.


Roy,

Thanks for all your insights into the nectar the gods that you share with us. I have a friend born in 1967. I also have 2 bottles of QDN Nacional for this vintage. Should I hold off until his 40th in a couple of years or is it ready to drink. How about decanting time and food pairings?

Thanks,

Russell Lo, Honolulu, Hawaii

Dear Russell,

The 1967 Quinta do Noval Nacional is a simply fabulous wine and I would definitely wait the 2 more years to have one in 2007. It is so youthful that if you waited 13 for his 50th it would be excellent then too. But if you have never tasted one, you owe it to yourself to see how powerful this is at 40 years old! I enjoyed this wine both in February of this year and more recently, from two different bottles on June 2nd (and several times in the past as it is one of my all-time favorite Nacional!).

I would decant it for six hours (in 2007) and make sure you open it on a night or afternoon when you will finish the bottle, of course. I will be having one in June of that year too, as I turn 50. Do not waste a single sip of this with food. Drink this AS dessert, all by itself. Of course you may choose to ignore this advice and I would not blame you, but I am a purist when opening a great bottle of this quality. Your mileage may vary. Stilton or Manchego cheese (unless you can find the fantastic Portuguese nectar called Serra de Estrella, a sumptuous cheese), walnuts, and sliced apples are perfect Port pairings, in my opinion. But let me say again, that a Port like Nacional is a dessert, if not a night, unto itself. Alternatively, for others in the hunt, seek out 1967 Fonseca-Guimaraens, Sandeman and/or Cockburn, all of which made very enjoyable vintage Ports that year.


Hi Roy,

I had collected some bottles of Port when I lived in Europe. I was going through all of my bottles recently and I came across one I know nothing about. Perhaps if I describe the label, you can tell me of the quality and history, or refer me to someone that can. I have a neighbor that wants to buy this bottle from me, but I have no idea of it's value.

The label reads:Da Silva’s Est.1813 PORT, Quinta do Noval, Vintage 1958, Bottled and Shipped by Antonio J. da Silva & Co. Ltd. Oporto Portugal--NACIONAL--produced from pre-phylloxera grapes. It is a very old bottle and has been well stored. I remember a friend’s business associate gave it to me at his bodega in Oporto about 15 years ago. I would appreciate any information you may have on this bottle of Port.

Jim Williams

Jim,

I hope this helps you:

1958 Quinta do Noval Nacional - the first wine and the first time, for me ... I like when that happens. Showing a light-pinkish red with a caramel colored rim, the '58 offered a spicy note that complemented the ripe plum aromas. It was unfairly placed next to the 1931s that follow in this flight, but fortunately I was not jumping ahead and gave each wine its due. This is a wine of elegance and had a light body and came from a vintage that was declared by few other Port players. Making fine Ports in less than stellar vintages is one of Nacional's trademarks. The 1958 provided lovely soft and sweet red fruits and surprisingly, some tannins still took hold although they're somewhat demure at this point. The dry and enduring finish portrayed the graceful style of this Nacional. 92 pts. (DRINK)

This was my own tasting note for a bottle consumed in Feb. 2004.


Hi Roy,

Thanks a lot for adding me to your mailing list - great reading. If you could send past newsletters, it would be very much appreciated.

Regarding, Mathieu Brisson's questions, I also live in Montreal and maybe I can offer some help. I travel quite a bit and I am always amazed at how low the prices are here at the SAQ given our high tax rates on alcohol. I would say that 2/3rd of the time, when I see a bottle in a wine store in the U.S. that we have here, it is cheaper to buy here. However, in recent years, a rather nasty rationalization in the number of SKUs at the SAQ as resulted in a lot less choice and prices have also increased a lot. The other important point to note is that since everything is free market in the U.S., you do get great deals compared to here if you shop around and you get a lot more variety. This is especially true for anything pre-1977 where it's always cheaper in the U.S. or UK. Some SAQ suggestions for Mathieu:

Tawny:

Barros 20 years (56$). Rivals my favorites (Ramos Pinto and Ferriera) of that age group for 20$ less

Dow's 1982 colheita (60$). Very nice, used to be 40$ a couple of years ago

Vintages (ready to drink):

Dow's 1980 (100$): That one I have found in NYC for a lot less (55$ U.S.)

Dow's 1983 (95$)

Kopke 1985 (60$): This was a pleasent surprise, rather light, but didn't suffer any VA like some 1985.

Offley 1983 (80$): Probably the best deal of the bunch. I was really impressed by that one.

Smith Woodhouse 1985 (80$)

There are also quite a few 95's that are a great deal, like the Vargellas for 45$, but I bought all of these :-)

The SAQ often have products come and go, so it's always a good idea to check in your store for pricing errors (like the 1977 Dow for 99$) and be friends with the store manager. And I'm sure Mathieu knows this already, but always make all your purchases on December 26th when it's 25% off...

Regarding US stores close by: I have never found anything really interesting in Plattsburg and Burlington, but it's probably worth looking around. The state liquor store in New Hampshire on I-93 near the Mass. border has a nice selection. In NYC, Garnet Liquors (Lexington and 68th) had great prices (1977 Smith Woodhouse for 70 USD).

Please feel free to transfer this to him as well as my e-mail address.

Regards,

Steve Culhane, Montreal, Canada

Dear Steve,

Thank you for providing some excellent Port insights for Mathieu. Much appreciated!


Hi Roy,

I would like to start collecting port wine, but I'm not sure what I should invest in, especially the early years. Can you please advise me what the best years to collect are? I thought I would start with this question first. I have so many, but I'll wait for your first response. Thank you in advance

Wesley Wood,

Dear Wesley,

While the wines are still affordable, I’d suggest you look for the 1980 vintage, which is under appreciated and wonderful, as well as those other fine ‘80s vintages like 1983 and 1985. That is where I would start as these will be drinkable now and for the next 2 decades in many cases. I would also look to fill in with vintages that are bargains by comparison and ready-to-drink today, like 1995, 1987, 1991 as well as a few 1978s. These are not the big vintages like the recent 1992, 1994, 1997 and 2000. You can always grab these over the next five years and their prices for the latter vintages, won’t probably change too much. Once you have a taste for the "good stuff" I’d suggest slowly purchasing well stored bottles of older top vintages like 1977 and 1970 and we can broach even more mature vintages, if you’d like. Enjoy the exploration!

_____________________________________________    

Should you be interested in some of my recent articles on Port, please visit our Article Archive. I welcome your feedback, critiques, suggestions, or questions on any Port related topics.  Please be sure to mention if you do not want your email (whole or in part) incorporated into the text of the newsletter*.  My e-mail address is: roy@fortheloveofport.com and I look forward to hearing from you.  I will do my personal best to respond to all e-mails addressed to me, in a timely manner.

Roy Hersh

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