Madeira Wine Guide

Companies, Shipper, Import Brands and More

On the island of Madeira there are two types of companies: producers and shippers. Producers make Madeira wine and sell it, shippers just trade the wine. Most of the producers have their seat in Funchal, most of the shippers are located in London. Many international companies that have a Madeira wine in their range of products order one of the original producers to bottle a wine under the company’s name, Sandeman as an example. And there is a third type of company in the wine business, the so-called partidistas, similar to the almacenistas of the Sherry-business. They store and mature wine, but they do not sell the wine directly to the market but to other traders. The following list is in alphabetical order and lists everything that you might find on a bottle or a label besides the grape variety and the year of vintage. A list of known Madeira vintages follows in one of the later chapters; the grape varieties are described in detail a few pages up. 3YO means three years old. The availability of vintages changes daily so I did not list the vintages for sale.

Not every name will appear in this list. Some landowners bottled wine under their initials, sometimes adding the village or the vineyard. AO-SM as an example means Annibal Oliveira, vineyard owner in Sao Martinho. Especially older vintages used to be traded in cask and were only bottled in their country of destination. The wines were then named after the ship (many famous ship names are included in this list) that transported them, or the trader’s newborn child or whatever. In the US this custom was very common. People named their Madeira wines after anything, wives, lovers, weddings, horse races or horses and the color of the cask. Many of these names you will not find in the list. Also you have to remember that, due to their private character, wines with such an exotic name were always small in number of bottles.

 

ABSL

See Artur de Barros e Sousa (below).

Abudarham, Vinhos Viúva & Filhos Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1934, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Acciaioly, Oskar

Last member of the Acciaioly family from Florence, Italy, that came to the island in the 16th century. Acciaioly used to export a lot of wine to Russia until 1916; he also exported wine into the Scandinavian countries until the late 1970’s. A lot of the remaining wines were sold in 1989 by Christie’s. Also Barbeito acquired some of the Acciaioly wines and sold the bottled wines with the original label. The wines in cask were later sold under the Barbeito label.

Adegas Exportadora de Vinhos da Madeira Lda. (Borges)

Brand of H. M. Borges for 3YO, traded by: Pofuturo, Sociedade Commercial de Bebidas Lda., Sitio do Pico do Cardo, Santo Antonio, P-9000 Funchal. Old address of Adega Exportadora: Rua das Avores 83, Funchal.

Adelaide

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Agatha

19th century ship carrying Madeira wine on the India route.

D'Aguiar, Joao Carlos & Co (also sometimes: & Cia)

The bottles are sometimes marked with the letters JCA & Co. Company founded by descendants of Diogo Alfonso d'Aguiar. Several bottles known from the 18th and the early 19th century, all bottles where filled before the 1940ies. Whether the company merged with Freitas to form Aguiar Freitas & Ca Lda is not known. According to Patrick Grubb, the d'Aguiar family owns some excellent vineyards around the district of Prazeyres, producing still fine sercial and verdelho.

Aguiar Freitas & Ca Sucrs. Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Anderson

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

AO

See Acciaioly, Oskar.

AO-SM

Initials of Anibal D'Oliveira, vineyard owner in Sao Martinho, one of the owners of Pereira d’Oliveira, some old vintages from the 19th and early 20th century still exist. See Pereira d’Oliveira.

Aspinwall

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Averys

A long established wine trader in Bristol, Great Britain since 1793. Used to bottle Madeira wines under their own label and imported wines by Cossart Gordon. Averys initiated a first small Madeira renaissance with a large sale of high class vintages in 1956. Today, Averys still trades some wines by D'Oliveiras, but no vintages anymore.

Address: Averys, Orchard House, Southfield Road, Nailsea, Bristol BS48 1JN, Great Britain, Tel: 01275-811-100, Fax: 01275-811-101.

Barbeito

See Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira) Lda.

Barros, Almeida & Co (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, probably went out of trade in 1980.

de Barros e Sousa Lda., Artur (ABSL)

See chapter about this company here. [link deprecated]

Bates & Schoonmaker Inc.

Former US importer for T. T. da Camara Lomelino. Address was: 17 East 42nd Street, New York City.

Bethune

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Bianchi, Carlo de

Famous 19th century collector of Madeira wines. He inherited the Lomelino Company after the death of Tarquinio Torquato da Camara Lomelino. C de B are the initials on bottles from his private stock.

Bianchi's Madeira Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1953, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Blandy's Madeiras Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded in 1811, joined in 1934, the premium brand of the MWC, see MWC for address and details.

Offer: Finest 3Y, Reserve 5Y, Dukes-series 5Y, Special Reserve 10Y, soleras, vintages.

Borges Sucrs. Lda., H. M.

See chapter about this company below.

Borges Madeira Lda.

Company absorbed in H. M. Borges Sucrs. Lda. I was not able to find out whether the label is still used today.

Bradley

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Bramin

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Broadbent Selections Inc.

Please see the chapter about this company below.

Buchanan

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Butler

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Philadelphia.

C de B

See Bianchi, Carlo de.

Cadwaladar

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Philadelphia.

Camacho, Joao Joaquim

Associated with Pereira d’Oliveira, see there.

Camara de Lobos

Village at the south coast, made famous by Sir Winston Churchill. Centre of the winegrowing region there. The mentioning of Camara de Lobos usually indicates a medium-sweet bual-type of wine.

Carmo Vinhos Lda.

Please see Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S.A.

Carlos Pescador

Import-brand of Carl Fischer company of Hamburg, Germany in the second half of the 20th century. Funny enough Carlos Pescador is Portguese for Carl Fischer so someone was really witty here. Imported wines were: Velho Extra, Particular, Fine Boal 1926 and Verdelho 1917.

Carter

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Virginia.

Casa dos Vinhos da Madeira (H&H)

Brand of Henriques & Henriques, still used today.

Old address: Rua dos Ferreiros 125, P-9001 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-236767.

Catherine Banks

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

CG

See Cossart Gordon.

Chairman

Medium dry blend, brand of Chairmans, London, for the European market. Importer for Germany: Max Burkhardt, Hamburg.

Challenger

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Charming Martha

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Charming Nancy

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Charming Polly

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Chrisholm

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Clauzel, A.

French importer of Madeira wine.

Coffin

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Comet

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Constitution

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Companhia Regional de Esportacao de Vinhos da Madeira Lda.

Company taken over by Vinhos Justino Henriques Filhos Lda. So far I have only seen one old bottle, bearing a faded label from the beginning of the 20th century and a Boal vintage from 1860. Even though the CEHA states that the label is still used today, I have not been able to verify this.

Companhia Vinicola da Madeira

Old address: Rua dos Ferreiros 188, P-9001 Funchal. There is a Terrantez vintage of 1795, some other old vintages and some three year old blends. Associated with Justino Henriques Filhos, see there.

Cossart Gordon Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded in 1745, joined in 1953, see MWC for address and details.

Offer: Good Company series, Finest 3Y, Reserve 5Y, Special Reserve 10Y, Duo Centenary series 15Y, soleras, vintages.

CREVML

Short for Companhia Regional de Exportacao de Vinhos da Madeira Lda, please see there.

Cunha, E. A. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, out of trade.

Cunha, J. A.

See Pereira D'Oliveira.

CVL

Initials of Carmo Vinhos Lda., please see Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S.A.

CVM

Initials of the Companhia Vinicola da Madeira.

De Renne

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

DL

See Lynch, Dominic.

Donaldson Vinhos & Cia (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1934, probably went out of trade in 1980, but is still used in Japan.

East India Madeira Co. Lda.

Associated with Justino Henriques, see there.

EBH

Initials of Eugenia Bianchi Henriques, granddaughter of Carlo de Bianchi. See also Bianchi, Carlo de.

Earthquake

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Espinheiro Madeira

Medium dry blend, imported for the German market by J. Buxtorf, Wichelhausen & Co, Bremen.

Fairlie, Captain David

One of the descendants of the original owners of the Torre Bella estate. Also a well known collector of Madeira wines who had married into the Blandy family. The collection was auctioned off in 1988 by Christie's. Also see Torre Bella.

Faja dos Padres

Once the best-known vineyard on the island, situated on sea-level west of the Cabo Girao, the third highest cliff in the world with a height of 580 meters/1900 feet, even though most travel guides will tell you it is the second highest in the world. The highest can be found in eastern Taiwan, being 760 meters/2500 feet high, the second highest is the Preikestolen ("Preacher's stool") in the Lysefjord east of Stavanger, Norway with 600 meters/2000 feet. Until the end of the 19th century the best and most famous Malvasia wines were grown at the Faja dos Padres. Today the new owner of the Faja has replanted some vines, but there is only little wine production so far. However I have seen casks with "Malvasia candida 98/99" on it so I guess there is some hope for the future. You will also find a restaurant, swimming pool and accommodation. There is a new cable car to the Faja (“Teleferico”) going down from Sitio da Rancho, the price was about 8 Euros in 2007 for a round trip. Also at Artur de Barros e Sousa they have a maturing cask with the word "Faja" on it, so they must have been able to obtain some wine from grapes grown at the Faja. Please take a look at the special chapter about a tour to the Faja in the guide to Madeira island here.

Fame

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Faria J. & Filhos Lda.

Address: Rua dos Maravilhas 25CC/25D, P-9000 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-742935, Fax 00351-291-742255. Second address is: Adress: Travessa do Tanque, 85 e 87, 9020-258 Funchal, Phone: +351 291 742 935, Fax: +351 291 742 255, Email: jfariafilhos@sapo.pt. Offer: 3YO, 5YO, fruit liquors, Aguadente de Cana.

Favourite

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Fearing

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Fernandes, Manuel Eugenio

Said to produce wine by the Canteiro-method. Address and offer unknown, you can find a 3YO in Funchal.

Ferraz, F. F. & Co (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded in 1915, joined in 1937, went out of trade in 1988.

FFF

See Ferraz, F. F., I have also seen bottles where the three F letters are shown in a triangular fashion.

Filipe Vinhos Lda., Antonio

Company absorbed into Henriques & Henriques Vinhos SA.

Fitzhugh

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Virginia.

Flagman

Medium dry blend, import brand of Eggers & Franke, Bremen, for the German market. Traded by Flagmans Ltd, London.

Franca & Chagas

Little wine from this company survived into the 21st century. The Franca family descended from Andre de Franca. His son Joao built the church at Estreito de Calheta in the Camara de Lobos district.

Freitas, A. de

So far I have only seen one miniature of this company. Whether this was the starting cell of Freitas Martins Caldeira & Cia Lda I do not know.

Freitas Branco

Old company which no longer exists. Some bottles known to exist from the 19th century.

Freitas Martins Caldeira & Cia Lda (MWC)

According to the CEHA, this company was taken over by Henriques & Henriques Vinhos SA in 1960, but this I doubt. According to all other sources, especially Alex Liddell and the MWC itself, this company joined the MWC in 1960. The former name was Martins, Caldeira & Cia Lda, the company was then reconstituted under the new name.

Freitas & Irmao

Sometimes just Freitas Irmao. The connection to Freitas Branco or Aguiar Freitas is not known. Some wines from the 19th century.

Funchal Wine Co. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Gadsden

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Gaselee, Sir Stephen

Famous collector of Madeira wines in the 1940ies.

Gebhard

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Gibbs & Co (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded 1857, went out of trade.

Godard

German filler of half-dry Madeira miniatures with the name Camara de Lobos. Former address: Godard GmbH, Neuss/Rhein.

Goelet, P. P.

U. S. importer and/or collector of Madeira wines in the 19th century, the family also owns Clos du Val in the Napa valley in California and Taltarni in Australia. The large collection seems to have been sold off since some of the bottles surfaced since 2000, though I could not find out where or when. Many of their bottles contain wines that were shipped in cask across the equator, so these bottles bear the ships names like “Brig Twin”, “Francis”, “Juno”, “Rebel” or “Southern Cross”.

Gomes, Joao Marcello (sometimes MJR Gomes)

Producer of blends like "pale" or "brown" Madeira, also an "old rich Malmsey" is known, probably out of trade.

Gomez, Luiz (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded in 1868, joined in 1953, probably went out of trade in 1988.

Gonsalves, A. Izidro

Nothing known about this producer, except a "seco" vintage from 1890, bottled in Funchal. The name on the bottle is written Gonsalves, instead being written Goncalves like in the other companies bearing that name.

Goncalves, C. R.

Company taken over by Vinhos Justino Henriques Filhos Lda. According to the CEHA, the label is still used today.

Goncalves, H. R.

Company taken over by Vinhos Justino Henriques Filhos Lda. According to the CEHA, the label is still used today.

Gonçalves, J. H. (Borges)

Brand of H. M. Borges for 3YO, according to the CEHA still used today, distributed by Manuel da Silva Peixoto & Co Lda., 30 Cam. Areeiro, Sao Martinho, P-9000-243 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-772381.

Gonçalves Lda., P. E.

Address: Jesus Maria José, 36 Cam. Bela Vista, P-9300-027 Camara de Lobos, Tel 00351-291-942813, Fax 00351-291-941510. Or: Jesus M. Jose, P-9300 Camara de Lobos, Tel 00351-291-941551.

Probably associated with J. Faria & Filhos, offer not known.

Gordon

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Grabham, Dr. Michael & Walther

Father and son; the father married into the Blandy family and collected Madeira wines.

Griswold

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Habersham, William Neyle

Eccentric merchant in Savannah, Georgia, born 1817. He was famous for the strange treatment of his Madeira wines and is said to be the inventor of rainwater Madeira. His huge Madeira wine collection was sold in 1900.

Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S.A. = H&H

See chapter about this company below.

HH

See Henriques & Henriques Vinhos.

HMB

See Borges, H. M.

Howland

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Huger

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Hurricane

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Instituto do Vinho da Madeira

See Madeira Wine Institute.

IVBAM

Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, the new name of the IVM, the Instituto do Vinho da Madeira. Please see at Madeira Wine Institute.

IVM

See Madeira Wine Institute.

Jackson

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

JCA & Co

See D'Aguiar, Joao Carlos & Co

JNV

See Junta Nacional do Vinho.

JRT

See Teixeira, J. R.

Juno

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Junta Nacional do Vinho

The JNV was founded in 1937. From 1940 on it controlled the production of Madeira wine in Funchal. The JNV awarded the JNV paper seal that was put over the cork of every bottle of Madeira wine bottled on the island. The first paper seals where just paper stripes with a small printed seal on it, later becoming a unique shape that was copied in the IVM seal. The IVM relieved the JNV in 1980. The JNV wax seal is described in the chapter about old bottles. Different JNV paper seals do exist, some with a small blue JNV sign, some with a complete coat of arms, later copied in the IVM paper seal.

Justino Henriques

See Vinhos Justino Henriques Filhos.

#

See Silva, Joao Vicente da

Kassab, B. A.

Braheem (or Brahim) A. Kassab; a syrian merchant who collected Madeira Wines at the beginning of the 20th century. His bottles were marked with the seal BAK. A description and picture of the seal can be found in the chapter about old bottles.

Kopke, C. N.

Founded in 1638, Kopke is the oldest existing Port wine company, situated in Vila Nova de Gaia. Kopke exported at least a three year old blend through a branch in Funchal. German importer and filler was Cinzano & Cia in Frankfurt/Main.

Kraus Bros. & Co

Former US importer for Welsh Brothers. Address was: 18-22 West Street, New York.

Krohn Brothers Lda. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1951, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Laurens

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Leacock & Co (MWC)

Brand of the Madeira Wine Company, founded in 1760, joined in 1934, address and details see MWC.

Offer: St. John 3YO, Rainwater, Finest 3Y, Reserve 5Y, Special Reserve 10Y, soleras, vintages.

Lenox

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Liberty

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Lloyd-O'Donnell-Tilghman

Famous American collection of Madeira wines.

LMR

See Rodrigues, L. M.

Lomelino, Tarquinio Torquato da Camara (MWC)

Brand of the Madeira Wine Company, founded in 1820, Portuguese at first then English and joined the MWC in 1936, went out of trade in 1988, but is still used in Belgium.

Lynch, Dominic = DL

Madeira wine collecting wine merchant in 19th century New York.

Madeira Meneres, Sociedade dos Vinhos (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, went out of trade in 1980.

Madeira Victoria & Co (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, went out of trade in 1980, but is still used in Holland.

Madeira Wine Association = MWA

See Madeira Wine Company.

Madeira Wine Company S.A. = MWC

See chapter about this company below.

Madeira Wine Institute (Instituto do Vinho da Madeira, IVM)

See chapter about the Institute here.

Madère de L'Ile

Blend for the French market imported by A. Clauzel. By the way: note how the label says “Espana y Portugal”, indicating that the wine traded here comes from Spain and Portugal. Also the language on the label is Spanish (like “Vinos” instead of “Vinhos”) which means that this wine comes from Spain. So this is another example of forged Madeira wine.

Margade

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Martin

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Martins F., Caldeira & Co. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1960, went out of trade in 1988.

Mary Elisabeth

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

MEF

See Fernandes, Manuel Eugenio

Mentor

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Meredith

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Middleton

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Miles Madeira (MWC)

Old name: Rutherford & Miles, brand of the Madeira Wine Company, founded in 1814, joined in 1969, address and details see MWC.

Offer: Finest 3Y, Reserve 5Y, Special Reserve 10Y, soleras, vintages.

Mitchell, Silas Weir MD

Madeira wine collecting physician in 19th century Philadelphia. Mitchell is also famous for his story “A Madeira party”, please refer to the bibliography section.

Monteiro Vinhos (Just. Henriques)

Associated with Justino Henriques e Filhos, see there.

MWA

Madeira Wine Association, see there.

MWC

Madeira Wine Company, see there.

Nicolas

Long-time established wine merchant in Paris/France, founded in 1822. The adress is: Nicolas, Siège social 2, Rue de Valmy, Charenton-le-Pont Seine. Even though I have never been there, I have been told, that this Company ownes (or owned) a few casks with old Madeira wine. This wine was bottled and sold in the 1970ies. The only wine known to me is a superb "Brown Madeira" vintage 1835.

Nobrega, A. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1953, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Oglethorpe

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

D'Oliveira, Aníbal

See Pereira D'Oliveira.

Owens-Thomas

House in Savannah, Georgia, with a small museum. In the cellar you can find a huge collection of Madeira wines with handwritten labels.

Parkington, J. R. & Co

Former British importer for Power Drury. Address was: 161 New Bond Street, London W. 1.

Passos Freitas, Manoel de

Nothing known about this producer besides a blended Madeira from the 1950ies, the bottle wearing a JNV seal.

Pereira D'Oliveira Vinhos

See chapter about this company below.

Pereira, Vasco Luis

Company absorbed into Pereira D'Oliveira (Vinhos) Lda.

Perestrello & Cia Lda

So far I have only seen two bottles bearing this name. One was a bottle with the remains of a label reading "Madere Reserve Perestrello" bottled in the 1920ies. The bottle was clearly destined for the french market, since the foil-capsule was stamped in Portuguese but the label was written in French. The other one was a stencilled bottle, about the same age. Perestrello is a well-known name on Madeira island, mostly because this family owned the foto-studio that today is named "Foto Museu Vicente" in Funchal. Whether the bottles have any direct connection to the Foto Museu is not known.

Perry, Matthew, Commodore

In 1854 Perry's ship "Susquehanna" returned from a trip to Japan, carrying the famous "Japan" Madeira. Later this Madeira was given to The Honourable John P. Kennedy, secretary of the navy. Long after his death 207 remaining bottles were unearthed in his home in 1895.

Pinckney

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Power Drury (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1934, went out of trade in 1988. Nevertheless the brand is sometimes used for 3YO wines.

Price, William

Madeira wine collecting wine merchant in 19th century Savannah.

Pries Scholtz, A. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, probably went out of trade in 1980. Importer for Germany was Bols-Import, Neuss/Rhein.

Quinta

Quinta means estate in Portuguese. Many famous wines were bottled under the name of the producing quinta.

Quinta do Serrado

Estate in Camara de Lobos owned by the family of Antonio Eduardo Henriques. A large stock of their wines (about 1200 bottles of each, 1827 and 1830) was sold at Christie’s in the late 1980ies.

Rapid

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Ravenel

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Rebel

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Red Jacket

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Rego or de Regos

This family originated from the Algarve.

Richmond Packet

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Rodrigues, L. M.

Only a Bual from 1915 is known to me, some of the bottles marked with a JNV-REF seal on the reddish wax cover. The wax cover also carries a "Di" seal on top. Some of the bottles carry a small paper label indicating that the wine had been bottled by Cossart Gordon.

Royal Madeira Company (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Rozès

Import company for the French market, founded in 1855 by Ostende Rozès. The company was sold to Vranken Monopole in 1999 and does no longer trade with Madeira wine. Port wines are still available though. Former address in Funchal: Rozès Lda., Rua San Pedro 18, Funchal. Former address in Bordeaux: Ed. Rozés, 20 Rue Raze, Bordeaux.

RT

See Teixera, Rodrigues.

Rutherford & Miles (MWC)

See Miles.

Rutledge

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Charlestown.

Sandeman

The global player Sandeman used to offer a range of Madeira blends with an age of 3, 10, 15, 20, 30 and 40 plus years, but today (2008) they only offer a three year old "Fine Rich" and a three year old "Rainwater". The wines are sourced from Henriques & Henriques under the Casa dos Vinhos brand. The bottles bear the Sandeman label with the typical "Don" icon.

Santa Luzia (MWC)

Brand of the MWC for the market in Finland.

Sarmento, José

Import company for the French market, probably no longer existing. Former Bordeaux address: Union Europeene d'Importation. 136 Quai des Chartrons, Bordeaux, France.

Scheley

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Schenley Import Corporation

Former importer for Power Drury for the US. Address was: 18 West 40th Street, New York.

Seager, Evans & Co.

Used to be the London importers for Blandy's. Old address: 20 Queen Anna's Gate, London S. W. 1.

Shortridge Lawton & Co, Vinhos (MWC)

Brand of the Madeira Wine Company, founded in 1757, joined in 1934, probably went out of trade in 1988. Wines are sought after by collectors since they were one of the last wines to be matured by the traditional sea voyage.

Silva Vinhos Lda

Founded in 1990 by the Silva brothers Joao Alexandre and Jose Olavo, went out of trade in 2002 after bankruptcy. As the company had been founded, the owners had also bought the rights for the Veiga Franca brand, but as far as I know, they had never used it for new vintages or even soleras.

Old address: Sitio da Igreja, Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, P-9300 Câmara de Lobos, Tel 00315-291-945810, Fax 00351-291-945199.

Offer: 3Y, 5Y and 10Y. Some old Veiga Franca vintages and soleras are still available from private sources and auctions.

Silva Lda, Joao Vicente da

Company founded in 1921 by the father of the Silva brothers who in 1990 founded Silva Vinhos Lda. Joao Vicente da Silva mainly worked as a partidista, but at least a blended Verdelho wine from the 1950ies or 1960ies is known.

Socieda Agricola da Madeira (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, founded in 1928, joined in 1937, went out of trade.

Spence-Symington

Famous American collection of Madeira Wines.

Spinola, J. B. (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1936, probably went out of trade in 1980.

de Sousa, Manoel, Herdeiros Lda.

Brand of a ca. 30 year old Madeira wine, sold at Patricio and Gouveia Lda., the embroidery company. They say that this wine comes from the owner’s family and has been matured for more then 30 years in the old casks lying in the basement of the building, right in the tasting room. These bottles do not bear any IVM seal. Also I have seen a Moscatel vintage from 1900 with the initials MSH.

Southern Cross

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Star of Bengal

19th century ship carrying Madeira wine on the India route.

Success

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Susquehanna

19th century ship of Commodore Matthew Perry, transporting the famous "Japan" Madeira back to the United States in 1854, see Perry.

Tartar

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Taylor, W. A. & Co.

Used to be the U.S. importers for Blandy's. Also marketed Madeira wine under their own name. Old address: 12-13 Laight Street, NY.

Teixeira, J. R. (also written Teixera in some catalogues)

Descendant from one of the captains that sailed with Zarco when he claimed Madeira island for Portugal. An 1863 Boal and a 1870 Boal were auctioned at Christies some years ago. J. R. stands for Joao Romao. Bottles are stencilled with JRT.

Teixera, Rodrigues

Bottles sometimes just marked with RT, another member of the Teixera family.

Teixera, Roques

Only one wine from the 19th century known. The family of Tristao Vaz Teixera settled on the north side of the island. By the 19th century they had established themselves as merchants, so there probably is a connection with Joao Romao Teixera (=JRT).

Telfair

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Thomas, Doug

Famous American collector of Madeira wines. Thomas lived in Baltimore from1847 to 1919 and was president of the Merchants Bank. Being a well-known wine connoisseur, he celebrated six famous Madeira wine tastings over a 17-year period. His collection of old Madeira wines was one of the largest in the US.

Three Deacons

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Torre Bella

The Torre Bella estate, meaning beautiful tower in Portuguese, owned by the family of the Visconde de Torre Bella, featured many of the largest and most famous vineyards of the island. Since the 1970ies the estate has been divided into many small parts, no significant winegrowing is done here anymore. Also see Fairlie, Captain David.

Torreão Vinhos, Adegas do

Address: Rua dos Ferreiros 215, P-9001 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-221937. The building was closed when I visited in 1999 and 2003 and seemed uninhabited. The company used to produce a wide variety of wines including vintages and -according to Liddell- was said to go back into trade in 1996. According to the latest information however the company went bankrupt. In 2003 you could still buy some 10 year old blends in shops on the island. Also a few vintage wines can still be obtained from shops, auctions or private sources. In 2006 most of the remaining wines (amongst them the famous 1927 Bastardo) were sold to Pereira D'Oliveira, who also seem to have taken over the premises in the Rua dos Ferreiros. Since Vasco Loja, the owner of the Adegas died and none of the descendants wants to continue, the chapter on the Adegas seems to be finally closed.

Townsend

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Travers

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century New York.

Twins

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Two Sisters

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Uniao Vinícola (Funchal) Lda.

Makes the East India Madeiras (Rainwater and London particular) for the East India Company Lda. Associated with Justino Henriques, see there. U.S. importer is World Shippers & Importers Co. in Philadelphia.

Vasconcelos, Casa dos Vinhos (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1951, probably went out of trade in 1980.

Veiga França

Old address: Avenida Arriaga 73, P-9000 Funchal

The company closed a few years ago, due to financial problems. Some old bottles are still available. The brand was bought by Silva Vinhos, see there.

Vieira, Dr. Manuel Jose

Some wine known from the 19th century. According to Patrick Grubb, the Doctor's vineyards produced some of the finest sercial.

Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira) Lda.

See chapter about this company below.

Vinhos Justino Henriques Filhos

See chapter about this company below.

VJH

See Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos, Lda.

Voigt, L. R.

Former British importer for Leacock. Address was: 24-25 Great Tower Street, London E. C. 3.

Wagner, John

Former US importer in Ivyland, Pennsylvania for the MWC, bottled Madeira wine under his own label.

Walters, Henry

Famous American collection of Madeira wine in Baltimore. The collection was auctioned off by the widow of the former owner in 1943.

Wanderer

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Wayne

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Welsh Brothers (MWC)

Brand of the MWC, joined in 1934, went out of trade in 1980, but is still used in Japan.

Widow

19th century ship transporting Madeira wine to the United States.

Wile Sons. Julius & Co

Former US importer for Leacock. Address was: 2 Park Avenue, New York.

Wilder

Madeira wine collecting family in 19th century Savannah.

Wine Society Ltd., The

British company in Stevenage SG1, Gunnels Wood Road, founded in 1874, some old vintages bottled by the MWC.

 


 

Artur de Barros e Sousa Lda (ABSL)

The company of Artur de Barros e Sousa, Lda., was founded in 1921. No other brands or companies are associated. The company is today owned by the Olim brothers, Artur and Edmundo, descendants of the company’s founder (fourth generation).

ABSL is the smallest of the Madeira wine producing companies on the island. The current annual production of wine is about 8.000 to 10.000 litres; the total storage capacity is 85.000 to 90.000 litres. Please keep in mind that we are talking litres here, not hectolitres (a hectolitre is 100 litres). As with most of the other producers, the Olim brothers do not own any vineyards on Madeira island, but purchase the grapes from selected farmers in the areas of Jardim da Serra (Sercial), Campanario (Malvasia and Boal) and Sao Vicente (Verdelho). ABSL do own some Listrao Branco vineyards on Porto Santo and they offer a Listrao blend of about 5 years of age. Vinification, maturing and bottling; it is all done in the lodge in the Rua dos Ferreiros 109.

The inconspicuous entrance to ABSL.

 

The lodge has changed but little in the 80 years that it is now used for winemaking. In the IVM museum you will find a historic picture (Nr. 38, Armazém, Artur de Barros e Sousa) that shows the inner yard of ABSL, just looking like today. Artur or Edmundo Olim will be happy to guide you into the three-storey lodge. The smell of the old casks is simply overwhelming. Every time I go there, I feel like a time traveler who goes back a hundred years. In their office you will find an old General Electric radio made in Brazil during World War II, no fax machine and probably the oldest telephone to be found on the island. (OK, I saw Edmundo using a cell-phone, but that was his wife calling him home for lunch!)

View of the tasting room (View the old Brazil-made radio in the window!).

Their most important market is Funchal, they mainly sell their wine to the people that enter the lodge. The Olim brothers do not really export wine, but if you are a long time customer and order wine by mail, they will probably send it to you. Just write them an email and kindly ask Edmundo's daughter Carlota for prices and shipping rates. None of the wines undergo estufagem. In fact ABSL takes much pride in being the only company to mature all their wines by the traditional canteiro method.

ABSL’s vintage of 2003.

 

Old casks at the ABSL lodge.

ABSL’s old vintage wines have been sold out some years ago. They do however offer a few modern vintage wines, as well as some old reserve wines that do not bear a specific date. Edmundo will tell you “…this one is about 60 years old, my father made it…” Personally I liked their Moscatel old reserve best, but their younger vintages and colheitas are also very good. The Bastardo Old Reserve and the Terrantez 1979 Vintage are also very interesting. I admit I simply like their old-fashioned way of wine making. I also like the two brothers because you can feel that their heart is into Madeira wine, Artur, who is the wine maker and Edmundo who is the guide, salesman and not to forget the entertainer!

From about 2010 on, it became evident that the Olim Brothers were looking for a way to continue ABSL while at the same time reducing their own involvement. This was in part because of age/health reasons, but also because of financial reasons. In 2013 it was anounced, that D'Oliveiras, direct neighbour to ABSL would buy the smaller company. Fortunately this leaves a chance that the old-style charme of the ABSL company might be conserved in some way, and if only as an expanded tasting and showroom facility.

Address: Artur de Barros e Sousa, Lda., Rua dos Ferreiros 109, P-9000-082 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-220 622, Email: a_b_s_lda@yahoo.com.br or absl@netmadeira.com or coment@vinhosmadeira.com.

Website at http://www.vinhosmadeira.com

Some of ABSL’s old wines.

 


 

Broadbent Selections

The relatively young company Broadbent Selections Inc. was founded in 1996 by Bartholomew Broadbent, son of Christie’s famous Michael Broadbent. After having previously worked for the Symington family for 10 years, he had decided to start his own company, to compete in the Port and Madeira field with his eponymous brand. Broadbent port debuted with the famous 1994 vintage, followed by Broadbent Madeira, having acquired barrels of Madeira dating back to 1933.

Today the portfolio of Broadbent Selections features wines from South America, Portugal, France, Germany, Australia, South Africa and other countries. The Madeira wines offered are produced in partnership with Vinhos Justino Henriques Lda. The three and five year old wines are made from Tinta Negra Mole, the only ten year old wine is a fine and complex Malmsey wine. But my personal favorite is a delicate Terrantez Old Reserve, estimated to be at least 50 years of age. Also some 20th century vintage Madeiras are being offered, a 1933 Malmsey, 1940 Sercial, 1934 and 1954 Verdelho and 1964 Boal as well as some Colheita wines.

The wines are currently being exported to markets in the United States, Canada, the U.K. and China, but the company would also like to expand to continental Europe.

Address: Broadbent Selections Inc., 2088 Union St., Suite 2, San Francisco, CA 94123, United States, Phone 001-415-931-1725, Fax 001-415-921-0596.

Email: info@broadbent.com
Website: www.broadbent.com

 


 

H. M. Borges, Sucrs. Lda. (HMB)

The company of H. M. Borges, Sucrs. Lda. was founded in 1877. Associated are Adega Exportadora de Vinhos da Madeira, J. H. Goncalvez & Ca., Borges Madeira Lda. and Araújo, Henriques & Ca. Some of these brands are still used today.

HMB sign.

H. M. Borges, Sucrs. Lda. today is a small to medium size family company that is still run by the descendents (forth generation) of the founder Henrique Menezes Borges. The current annual production of wine is 2.500 hectolitres, the total storage capacity is 120.000 hectoliters. As with most of the other producers, the company does not own any vineyards, but purchases the grapes from selected farmers in the areas of Estreito de Camara de Lobos, Campanario and Sao Jorge. Pressing, vinification, estufagem and maturing; it is all done in the one building in the Rua de Janeiro 83. The old building used to be a flour mill, but today contains all the winemaking facilities as well as the bottling line, the tasting room, the laboratory and the office.

Their most important export markets are Japan, the United States and the countries of the European Community. You can still find the old numbering system of the three year old blends (1, 2, 3) that dates back to the wartime exports to Brazil. The 10 and 15 year old blends are made from the traditional varieties, the 3 and 5 year old wines are made from Tinta Negra Mole. Also, all the wines from Tinta undergo estufagem.

 

The lodge of H. M. Borges in the Rua 31 de Janeiro.

H. M. Borges, Sucrs. Lda. is famous for its old vintage wines, but unfortunately most of these wines have been sold out some years ago. They do however offer a few modern vintage wines, as well as a sweet solera from 1940 that I find very attractive. This solera originally belonged to Veiga Franca but was later sold to the Borges company. Also they have a range of Colheita wines. The company does not sell wines by mail order.

The tasting room at HMB.

 

Big storing casks at HMB.

 

The company would suggest a 5 year old dry or medium dry blend for a beginner with Madeira wine. In my opinion the dry wines of Borges are all rather low in acidity, so even those who do not like the dry Madeira styles so much should give them a try. Borges also plans on extending the colheita style without compromising the vintage wines.

Address: H. M. Borges, Sucrs. Lda., Rua 31 de Janeiro 83, PO Box 92, P-9050-011 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-223247, Fax 00351-291-222281, open monday to friday 9.00 a.m. - 12.30 p.m. and 2.00 pm - 5.30 p.m.
Email: hmborges@mail.telepac.pt. or info@hmborges.com
Website at http://www.hmborges.com

View of the bottling line.

 

Packing of the bottles for export.

 


 

Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S.A. (H&H)

The company of Henriques & Henriques Vinhos S. A. was founded in 1850 by Joao Joachim Henriques. Associated are: Belem’s Madeira Wine Lda. (founded 1932), Carmo Vinhos Lda. (founded 1928), Casa dos Vinhos da Madeira Lda. (founded 1932) which bottles the Madeira wine for Sandeman and Antonio Eduardo Henriques Sucrs. Lda. (founded 1960). Most of these brands are still used today.

View of the Belem lodge up the road.

H & H is one of the largest producers of Madeira wine on the island. The company used to be run by John Cossart whose father Peter Cossart (the brother of Noel Cossart who wrote "The island vineyard") entered the firm in 1938. Sadly, John died much to early in 2008 and Dr. Humberto Jardim took over as CEO. La Martiniquaise (the owner of Vinhos Justinos Henriques) had bought a small share of Henriques&Henriques before, but in 2012 they acquired the majority of H&H from Dr. Humberto Jardim who remains CEO. The ownership nevertheless will bring some changes. Even though La Martiniquaise plans to keep H&H and VJH as seperate companies, part of the wine making business of H&H will move to the large VJH-site at Canico. There are also plans for a winelodge at Quinta Grande to present the H&H company to visitors and to offer better tasting and selling facilities. The winemaker for more than a decade is Luis Pereira who has been awarded "Winemaker of the year" and prefers a classic rich and weighty style. Contrary to most other Madeira wine producing companies H&H owns some vineyards. In 1995 they even established a new vineyard at Quinta Grande at the size of 10 hectares (25 acres) which is accessible to machines. Also they built a new adega in Quinta Grande so that the company can work with state of the art equipment. All the vinification and estufagem is done here. The wines then mature down in the Belem lodge. West from the center of Camara de Lobos (Largo Republica) you go up the road a few minutes. The big building with the southern glass front is the main office with tasting rooms, bottling line and other facilities.

The great glass front lets in the sun’s heat: the typical armazem do sol.

 

Entrance to the Belem lodge.

Their most important export markets besides the European countries (Great Britain, Denmark, Sweden and Germany) are the U. S. and Canada. H & H’s blended wines from the 5 year old up to the 15 year old are made from the traditional varieties, the 3 year old from Tinta Negra Mole.

Bottling line in the basement of the Belem lodge.

Some excellent 20th Century wines are being offered but the most glorious wines are certainly four old vintage wines that are called “the heavenly quartet”. This quartet consists of the Grand Old Boal (bottled in 1927), Reserva Malvasia (bottled in 1964), Reserva Sercial (bottled in 1965) and the W.S. Boal (bottled in 1927). These four wines bear no specific vintage date, but they were considered “old wines” in 1850. Alex Lidell and other Madeira wine critics regard them as textbook examples of Madeira wine. Personally I like the W.S. Boal best, a fantastic, multi-layered and very complex wine. Due to their very limited stock they are rather expensive. Unfortunately it is no longer possible to taste wines of the "heavenly quartet" in Camara de Lobos. By the way: these old wines are recorked on a regular basis. H & H is one of the few producers to do this. They even mark the dates of recorking on the bottle! Also on the backlabel is a note in Portuguese, recommending storage of Madeira wines in a vertical position.

Casks seen in the Belem lodge (shown with the friendly permission of Maik Göbel).

 

The “heavenly quartet” (shown with the friendly permission of Maik Göbel).

In my opinion, the 15 year old blends, as well as the 10 YO, are a very good value. Especially when you look for some Madeira wine you can drink more often than once in a lifetime. Some old soleras and vintages can also be found in shops and auctions.

Address: Caminho Grande e Preces, Sitio de Belém, P-9300 Câmara de Lobos, Tel 00351-291-941551 or 941552, Fax 00351-291-941590. An adega is located in Ribeira do Escrivao, Quinta Grande, Tel 00351-291-942203.
Email marketing@henriquesehenriques.pt
Website at http://www.henriquesehenriques.pt

 


 

Madeira Wine Company S.A. (MWC)

The Madeira Wine Company was formed in 1913 as an association of exporters who decided to join efforts to increase their efficiency on exportations. It was during the 20’s that most of the British shippers joined the company and on total 26 companies joined this association. The early name was the Madeira Wine Association and 1981 was changed to Madeira Wine Company. Being a corporation since 1987, the company used to belong to the Blandy family and the producers of premium ports, the Symington Family who acquired a shareholding in 1989. In 2011 Blandys regained control of the Madeira Wine Company with the Symington Family Estates maintaining a minority shareholding in the MWC. Chris Blandy became CEO in late 2011.

The four main brands today are Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock and Miles. Blandy’s and Cossart Gordon are the two premium brands. These names were originally the names of 4 wine producing families, however only the Blandy family are now still involved in the company. The brand Blandy’s is one of the most popular and widely-sold Madeira wines worldwide.

The Madeira Wine Company today is one of the biggest producers on the island, with approximately 35% of the local Madeira market and with a high share of the bottled market worldwide, especially on the higher categories of wines.

The company did not own any vineyards but for one small exception. It used to rely on grapes bought from selected farmers. With the rising need to secure enough grapes for the wine making, the company however went back into also owning vineyards in 2012/2013. Today one plot is the Quinta do Santa Luzia with 1.5ha, intended as a top Terrantez site. The second is the Quinta do Furao with 2ha, planted with Sercial and Verdelho. Finally the largest site at 4.5ha is Quinta do Bispo, planted mainly with Malvasia. The other grapes come from different locations on the island. For example Bual comes mainly from Calheta, Malvasia from Sao Jorge and Tinta Negra Mole from Camara de Lobos and S. Vicente. The grapes are all processed at the company winery at Mercês, and the company has during the vintage a collecting depot on the north coast to deal with their grape purchases in S. Vicente and Porto Moniz. The grapes arrive in single plastic boxes to prevent early fermentation. After pressing, the classical varieties undergo maceration for a maximum of 12 hours or none at all. The wine is then fermented in stainless steel at controlled temperatures. Only the three year old wines will undergo estufagem, all the other wines are matured by the traditional canteiro method. Some of the canteiro casks are located above the estufagem tanks to benefit from the heat. The MWC makes its own casks and until recently, it was possible to see this at their visitor centre, “The Old Blandy Wine Lodge”. Presently the cooperage is located on the Mercês winery; however, visitors taking the guided tour can still see the cooper’s tools.

The wines are stored in both lodges, Merces and “The Old Blandy Wine Lodge”. The total storage capacity is of approximately 5.000.000 litres. The Merces lodge also houses the laboratory, tasting room, quality control, bottling and packing facilities. The São Francisco lodge, nowadays also called “The Old Blandy Wine Lodge”, is more of tourist interest, and is also a very important storage area for the wines aged on the canteiro method. You will find tasting rooms for vintages and blends, shops and also the new “Arcadas de São Francisco” shopping centre right behind the lodge.

It is amazing that even though the wines are made by the same company, the four different brands are far from being of a uniform taste. The wine maker Francisco Albuquerque (multi-awarded "Wine maker of the year"!) has been able to keep an individial style for each of the brands. Blandy wines are always a little richer and heavier, Cossart wines are more fruity and elegant, Leacock wines always appear to me as sweeter than the other brands and Miles represents a somewhat lighter style.

In the last years the MWC has clearly been a driving force behind the rejuvenation of the image of Madeira wine. New styles like Colheita, Harvest and Alvada (see chapter on types of wine) have stirred much publicity and caused a positive response from the market, especially from new and younger wine drinkers. The most important export markets are the U.K., U. S., Belgium, Japan, Switzerland and other countries.

Today, many of the MWC famous old vintages and soleras are only found on auctions or in shops specializing in old Madeira wine. In 2003 the only really old wines where the Cossart Gordon 1908 Bual; very concentrated, lots of caramel, coffee, ashes and very, very long finish, and two soleras from 1860 and 1870. It is no secret that some of the older wines, like the 1882 Verdelho, the 1900 Moscatel, the 1908 Boal and the 1910 Malvasia were bought from other companies, especially D'Oliveiras in the mid 1980ies. This was (and still is) common practice amongst the different producers. In fact most producers offer some wines that they did not produce themselves but bought from other producers or stockholders called partidistas. Some of the MWC's younger vintages are very promising and well worth tasting. Also I find the Centennial Blend, a unique limited edition blend of the four main varieties, very interesting. This blend is limited to 3500 bottles only and was edited for the year 2000 celebrations. The Colheitas offer some individuality but are lighter than the frasqueira vintages. The latest innovations also include single-vineyard wines. Of course you can find the full range of blends from the MWC. Personally I like the 10 YO Cossart wines best, especially the Bual, also the 10 YO Miles Malmsey is a favourite of mine, sweet, complex and fruity but never cloying. The MWC will sell wines by mail order to private consumers, please see below for an email-address.

Address: Madeira Wine Company S. A., The Old Blandy Wine Lodge (Adegas São Francisco), Departamento de Relações Publicas, Avenida Arriaga 28, P-9000-064 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-740110, Fax 00351-291-740111. Merces Lodge, Rua dos Ferreiros 191, left to the Adegas de Torreao. P-9000-082 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-740100, Fax 00351-291-740101.
Email address for mail order: directsales@madeirawinecompany.com
Website: http://www.madeirawinecompany.com
Also websites for the four remaining brands exist:
Blandy's http://www.blandys.com
Cossart Gordon http://www.cossartgordon.com
Leacock's http://www.leacockmadeira.com
Miles http://www.symington.com/miles/index.html

The Old Blandy's Winelodge has its own website with exact opening hours at http://www.symington.com/winelodge/index.htm

Merces Pictures:

View of the Merces Lodge.

 

Grapes arrive at Merces (shown with the friendly permission of Maik Göbel).

 

Maceration tanks at Merces.

 

Estufa at Merces.

 

Huge storing casks at Merces.

 

View of the bottling line.

 

The Merces laboratory.

 

The tasting room at Merces.

 

Bottles waiting to be tasted...

 

Old Blandy’s Wine Lodge Pictures:

Entrance to the MWC.

 

MWC signs.

 

Big satinwood casks in the Old Blandy Lodge.

 

MWC casks with maturing vintage wine.

 

Max Romer tasting room.

 

Passage way.

 

Vintage tasting room.

 

The MWC’s private collection.

 

Max Romer tasting room.

 

Passage way.

 

Vintage tasting room.

 

The MWC’s private collection.

 


 

Madeira Wine Institute

The Madeira Wine Institute or Instituto do Vinho da Madeira is the regulatory body for the making of Madeira wine. Its name changed to IVBAM - Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira offically, but most people still call it the IVM.
Address: Rua 5 de Outobro 78, P-9000 Funchal, or PO Box: 9000-079 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-204600, Fax 00351-291-228685. Open Mon – Fri: 9.30am – 12.30pm and 2pm – 5pm.
Alternative address: Rua Visconde de Anadia, 44, PO Box: 9050-020 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-223141, Fax 00351-291-224791.
Email-address: ivbam.sra@gov-madeira.pt
Website at http://www.sra.pt/ivm/default.asp

IVM sign.

 

View of the IVM building from the backyard.

The Instituto does not offer any blends or vintage wines but makes some wine in its own laboratories that is given away for special events or charities. The museum is very interesting, lots of old photographs, lots of information to soak up for the Madeira wine enthusiast.

Founded in 1980, the IVM awards the paper seal on each bottle of island bottled wine. The IVM relieved the Junta Nacional do Vinho. The JNV wax seal of authenticity is described in the chapter about old bottles. The IVM paper seal bears the complete coat of arms of the island or just the cross in the older seals. The seals are issued to the producers in batches, but it is entirely up to the producer when to use the batches. Besides a number in the range from 000 001 to 999 999 for each batch, the seals also bear a unique letter code indicating the volume of the bottle. This letter code provides some traceability as to when the batch had been issued. Letter codes with a single letter indicate a bottle volume of more than 600ml, letter codes with two letters indicate a bottle volume of less than 600ml.

Entrance to the museum of the IVM.

 

Wine press in the IVM museum.

 


 

Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda.

The company of Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. was founded in 1850 by Joao Pereira d’Oliveira. He started as a partidista who produced wines to later sell them to other shippers. From around the mid 1970ies on the company started to market wine under its own label, but continued to sell wines to other companies, like the MWC. For example part of the famous 1908 Bual was sold to the MWC and so today this wine is offered under the Cossart Gordon label as well. Other wines sold to the MWC include the 1882 Verdelho, 1900 Moscatel, 1910 Sercial and 1910 Malvasia . Also the company has been successful in aquiring wines from other producers, especially with taking over the complete remaining stock of the Adegas de Torreao. The 1927 Bastardo and the 1958 Boal are just two brilliant examples of what is going to hit the market, once the Adegas old treasures will be released. Associated are Joao Joaquim Camacho and Augusto Cunha; from both companies very few bottles made it into the 21st century.
Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. today is a small size family company that is still run by the descendents of the founders family. The current annual production of wine is 1.500 hectolitres; the winemaking is done in Sao Martinho. The company owns some vineyards but most of the grapes are bought from selected farmers. Part of the ageing wine is also stored in the Rua dos Ferreiros where the company has its lodge with sales room and office. Immediately to the right you can find the company of Artur de Barros e Sousa, Lda, another producer of madeira wine.

Entrance to the D’Oliveira lodge.

View of the tasting room.
Their most important export markets are the European countries, Canada and the United States. All the blends (3, 5, 10 and 15 year old) from d’Oliveiras are mainly made from Tinta Negra Mole and all undergo estufagem. The company is famous for its old vintages. Not only is the quality of these of a very high standard, they also seem to exist in large volumes. For decades now, d’Oliveiras has offered an unparalleled variety of old vintage wines dating back to the 1850 Verdelho. Tasting of the vintage wines and the blended wines is free in their tasting and sales room in the Rua dos Ferreiros. Personally I like the 1900 Moscatel vintage best: very fine Moscatel flavor, concentrated, sweet and fruity and has a very, very long lasting flavor. Also the 1850 Verdelho and the 1908 Boal are outstanding and offer excellent value. Of the new vintages I like the 1968 Boal best; it has also won a gold medal in 2002. Certainly a key to the overall high quality of the D#Oliveira wines is the fact, that they stay in wood. Bottling is done according to the demand of the market, so their wines still keep improving.

Old casks at D’Oliveiras.

Bottles awaiting export.
Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. will send wine by mail, they can fax you their shipping rates before, which I find very reasonable. Please keep in mind though that the shipment of Alcohol is not allowed to some destinations.
Address: Address: Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda., Rua dos Ferreiros 107, P-9000-082 Funchal, Tel 00351-291-220784/228558, Fax 00351-291-229081. Adega Tel 00351-291-228622.
Email: perolivinhos@hotmail.com
Website: http://perolivinhos.pai.pt/

Vintage wines for sale at D’Oliveiras.

 


 

Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira) Lda.

The company of Vinhos Barbeito was founded in 1948 by Mario Barbeito. After his death his daughter Dona Manuela de Freitas and her two sons Miguel and Ricardo took over. In 1991 Barbeito sold 50 % of the company to the Kinoshita Shoji Company Ltd., a Japanese company trading in beverages. Ricardo today is the winemaker of Vinhos Barbeito and loves experimentation, as a lot of interesting (and well-tasting) developments show, like blends from different grape varieties, single cask wines, single vineyard wines and so on. Also Vinhos Barbeito produces the Rare Wine Company's Historic Series of Madeiras. This series offers Boston Bual Special Reserve, New York Malmsey Special Reserve, and Charleston Sercial Special Reserve. Also in Spring 2007 a limited bottling of New Orleans Special Reserve Terrantez has been released.

Barbeito sign.
Today Vinhos Barbeito is one of the largest producers of Madeira wine on the island. Barbeito does not own any vineyards, but purchases grapes from their producers, mainly from Sao Vicente and Camara de Lobos and Estreito de Camara de Lobos. The wine is made in Estreito de Camara de Lobos, all the other work is done in the lodge at the Estrada Monumental. This building was once a sugar mill but today houses the storing vats, the laboratory, the bottling line and the tasting room as well as the office. Some potential vintage wines are maturing in Barreiros. The others are maturing in the lodge. The company participates in the POSEIMA programm of the EU.

View of the Barbeito lodge.
The most important export market by far is Japan, followed by Taiwan. Also Great Britain, the United States, and some other European countries are important export countries.
Vinhos Barbeito offers the classic range of blends, but the real treasure is the stock of old vintage wines. Probably the most famous wine is -or better was- the Terrantez 1795. Please refer to the chapter about “The 1795 Vintages” for more information about this wine. A lot of other old vintages, some dating from before 1900, are still available. In the tasting room you will find a changing display of old vintage wines. Vinhos Barbeito also acquired some of the Oscar Acciaioli wines when this company went out of business. The wines already bottled were sold under the Acciaioli label, the wine in cask was sold under Barbeitos name. Personally, I like the Oscar/Barbeito 1839 Verdelho the best. Also the Malmseys of 1834, 1875 and 1900 are very good as well as the 1863 Bual.

Steel tanks seen at Barbeito’s.

Old casks at Barbeito’s.

Big storing casks at Barbeito’s.
Diogo’s Wine and Spirit Shop is another outlet for Vinhos Barbeitos. The shop also houses the Columbus museum in the basement. The books and other items connected to Christopher Columbus were collected by the founder of the company, Mario Barbeito.
Address: Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira) Lda., Estrada Monumental 145, P-9000 Funchal, right besides the famous Reid's hotel, left to Banco Espirito Santo, Tel 00351-291-762434, Fax 00351-291-765832. Storing facility: Torre, Camara de Lobos, Tel 00351-291-942094.
Email: barbeitomadeira@mail.telepac.pt
Website: http://www.vinhosbarbeito.com

View of the bottling line.

The tasting room at Barbeito’s.

 


 

Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos, Lda. (VJH)

The company of Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos, Lda. was founded in 1870. In 1981, Sigfredo da Costa Campos bought the company from the owners of the Companhia Vinicola da Madeira and later bought the stocks of the Companhia as well. Associated are also East India Madeira Co. Lda., Uniao Vinicola (Funchal) Lda. and Monteiro Vinhos. Today the company is owned by the French La Martiniquaise company which also does the import for the French market. The company took a big blow when Sigfredo da Costas Campos, the energetic co-owner of VJH died in 2008. Until then VJH had been on a steady course of expansion, building a new facility for the storage of casks at Cancela and reaching almost 50% of exports. La Martiniquaise had also bought a small share of competitor Henriques&Henriques and in 2012 acquired the majority of H&H from Dr. Humberto Jardim who remains CEO.

View of the lodge in Cancela.
The company is one of the largest producers of Madeira wine, expanding considerably in the last years. After producing for a long time in the downtown of Funchal in the Rua do Carmo 86, the company moved to new grounds in 1994 to a huge site in the Cancela Industrial Park near Canico. Everything from winemaking to packing, as well as the laboratory and the tasting room; it is all done on this site.

Grape reception facilities.
The grapes come from 700 to 800 producers, mainly from the Sao Vicente and Camara de Lobos area. The average of just 3000 kg of grapes per producer shows how small the vineyards on the island really are. Payment in 2003 was about 1 € per kg, depending on the sugar content of the grapes. The grapes are transported in boxes of 50 kg coming from the south side or containers of 1000 kg coming from the north of the island. After pressing the grapes undergo a short maceration of a few hours. The total storage capacity is 650.000 hectolitres in wood and 4.500.000 hectolitres in inox-steel. All the blends and colheitas undergo estufagem, being heated to 45-50° Celsius for three months. Of course, the vintage wines are treated by the Canteiro method.

Casks in the VJH lodge.
The company also participates in the EU Poseima program. Justino still exports a little bulk wine, even though these exports were officially stopped in 2001. To prevent it from being bottled as Madeira wine, they add salt and pepper to it. By doing this, they make sure this wine is only used to make Sauce Madere for the French market. The most important export markets are France, the United States, Russia, Poland, Skandinavia, Mexico and Brasil. The company also matures the wines for the Broadbent Selection range of Madeiras.

View of the bottling line.
Even though everything looks quite modern and high-tech, the style of winemaking is quite traditional. As Juan Teixeira, the winemaker, puts it: “The secret to making a good Madeira wine is having good grapes to start with and then a good old cask - then you just sit and wait!” I have only limited experience with their vintage wines and colheitas, but I like the 10 YO sweet blend (made from Tinta Negra Mole) very much, being rather complex, rounded and sweet, with a nice aftertaste of burnt coffee. Also the old Terrantez Reserva is very good, being about 50 years old. There are still some old vintage wines from the Companhia Vinicola around at auctions, going back to the 1795 Terrantez.

Packing of the bottles for export.
Address: Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos, Lda. Parque Industrial Cancela, P-9125-042 Canico (You can take the bus number 39 to the Industrial Parque, the terminus is just across the entrance to the wine company), Tel 00351-291-934257, Fax 00351-291-934049. Lisbon office: Tva. da Conceicao da Gloria 7-6°, 1200 Lisboa – Portugal, Tel 00351-21-3460901, Fax 00351-21-3471801.
Email: justino@justinosmadeira.com
Website: http://www.justinosmadeira.com

View of the tasting room.